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Charlie the Celestial Dragon | Free Crochet Pattern

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Charlie the Celestial Dragon is a fun and challenging amigurumi pattern or even a great piece of home decor for any dragon-lover. Her body twists in a curlicue, allowing her to stand up on her tail or wrap around your arm.

The celestial dragon, also called the Chinese dragon or the Eastern dragon, is a symbol of prosperity. It flies through the sky without wings, often found wrapped around the pillars of temples, bringing good fortune to the emperor.

From Mulan to World of Warcraft, there are inspiring and adorable examples of the celestial dragon. I have always loved the idea of them flying and twisting through the air without wings, using only their undulation to fly.

Of course, this means they would need glorious fins for aerodynamics as they swirled in the sky.

And that also got me thinking about how a flying celestial dragon would interact with her human friends. Why, she would wrap herself around their arms, wrist, and nearby objects right? Always flying just above the surface of tables, or shoulders?

So Charlie flies, ever floating (with the help of her curly tail) and ready to wrap around your lamp while you work or your arm while you wander the floor of the latest comic book convention. 🙂

Construction

If you like the curving capabilities of short rounds, this is going to be a very fun pattern for you. Charlie’s body is one piece, built from her tail up, working the spiral by doing short rounds and moving the starting stitch in order to create a curl.

Other patterns that use this technique to curve a body or tail are Wonder the Birthday Dragon, Vincent the Dragon. It is also used to create knees in patterns like Ulyssa the Unicorn and Clark the Fox.

I also chose to create a slight curve to her fins – on her face, legs, and back — by using picot points and constructing them separately so they could do exactly what I wanted. 🙂

Want those exact eyes? I also have a video tutorial for Painting Glitter Safety Eyes so you can create your own to match your celestial dragon!

As with my other recent patterns, I’ve taken tons and tons of progress photos so make this Premium Pattern incredibly easy to follow.

So don’t let any aspect of this pattern construction intimidate you! The Premium Pattern will really help you’ll realize that this pattern is deceptively simple.

This pattern is also available as a Premium Pattern! Premium Patterns are ad-free, printable .pdf files, professionally formatted and edited, with extra tutorial photos not available in the free version, and print-only perks, like checkboxes for every round*!

Premium Patterns are available in the Hooked by Kati Shop, Ravelry, and Etsy.

Charlie the Celestial Dragon

All patterns are written in English, in US terms using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

Advanced. Knowledge needed of chains (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), back loops only (BLO), Right side (RS), Wrong side (WS), increases and decreases. Knowledge of amigurumi part attachment is recommended. Pattern uses short rounds for shaping.

Supplies

  • Red Heart With Love yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 370 yds/7 oz/198 g, Tangerine (TANG), 2 balls; Jadeite (JADE), < 1 ball; Aran (ARAN), < 1 ball.
  • G (4.00 mm) Furls hook
  • Two 25mm colored slit-pupil (cat eye) safety eyes
  • Polyfil stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
  • Straight pins

Measurements

15” tall x 8” wide x 8” deep

Gauge

8 sts x 8 rows in sc = 2” x 2”

Pattern Notes

  • Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
  • For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
  • Rows labeled “WS” or “wrong side” are worked with the stitches facing the inside of the piece; rows labeled “RS” or “right side” are worked with the stitches facing the outside of the piece as normal. This is to help you keep track of your rows while working short rows.
  • Rounds labeled “Short rnd” are worked back and forth and will end before the round is complete, leaving stitches deliberately unworked to be worked in later rounds as instructed.
  • At the end of short row sections, the starting stitch will not line up with the starting stitch from the previous round. This is necessary for the curve of the body. If using stitch markers, move them accordingly.
  • Stuff firmly for the body to stand up.

Pattern Stitches

  • Bobble-st – Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times in same st, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.
  • Surface sl st – Surface slip stitch: With loop on hook, insert hook around post or between stitches of finished work, yo, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook.
  • Surface sc – Surface single crochet: With loop on hook, insert hook around post or between stitches of finished work, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops on hook. Work single crochets on top of finished work.
  • Sc join – Single crochet join: Slip knot in yarn, loop slip knot over hook, insert hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Instructions

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Head

With TANG, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (10)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 5 times. (15)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 5 times. (20)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 5 times. (25)

Rnds 6-8: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 9: Bobble-st (see Pattern Stitches), 8 sc, bobble-st, 15 sc. (25)

Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 9.

Rnds 11-13: Sc evenly around.

Push bobble sts in to create nostrils.

Rnd 14: [4 sc, inc] 5 times. (30)

Rnds 15-17: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 18: [5 sc, inc] 5 times. (35)

Rnd 19: [6 sc, inc] 5 times. (40)

Rnd 20: [7 sc, inc] twice, 24 sc. (42)

Rnds 21-26: Sc evenly around.

Insert safety eyes at Rnd 21, one st to the outside of the 1st and 2nd increases, 9 sts showing between eyes. Eyes should be in line with nostrils.

Stuff.

Rnd 27: [5 sc, dec] 6 times. (36)

Rnd 28: [4 sc, dec] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 29: [3 sc, dec] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 30: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 31: [Sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Finish stuffing.

Rnd 32: Dec 6 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.

Set aside.

Nostrils

Using 10 pins on each side, pin around the back of the nostril and for 5 rows in a straight line toward the starting point of the nose.

Starting on the outside of the nostril, using the pins as a guide, surface-sl st, 8 surface-sc (See Pattern Stitches), surface-sl st.

Weave in ends.

Face Embellishments/Eyebrows

(Make 2)

With JADE, ch 6.

Row 1: Sl st in third ch from hook (see Pattern Notes), sc, inc, sc, turn. (4 sc, 1 picot)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in BLO, ch 5, turn. (2 sc, 5 chs)

Row 3: Sl st in third ch from hook, sc, inc, 2 sc in BLO, turn. (5 sc, 1 picot)

Row 4-7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two more times.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in BLO, ch 4, turn. (1 sc, 4 chs)

Row 9: Sl st in third ch from hook, inc, sc in BLO, turn. (3 sc 1 picot)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in BLO, ch 3, turn. (1 sc, 3 chs)

Row 11: Sl st in third ch from hook, sc in BLO, turn. (1 sc, 1 picot)

Rows 12-15: Repeat Rows 10 and 11 two more times.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

With pins, mark a line on head from the corner of the eye straight down the nose toward nostril 6 sts.

Starting at farthest pin from eye, sew Face Embellishments from smallest spike to largest in a straight line from pin to pin, then over and around the safety eye, as close to the eye as possible.

Repeat on other eye.

Horns

(Make 2)

With ARAN, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)

Rnd 7: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 8: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)

Rnd 9: Sc evenly around, turn.

Rnd 10: (WS)(Short Rnd) (see Pattern Notes) 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 11: (RS)(Short Rnd) 6 sc. (6)

Rnd 12: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from Rnd 10 , 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 13: [5 sc, inc] twice. (14)

If you need extra help with these short rounds, the Premium Pattern is full of instructional photos, and this video tutorial on the basics of short rounds might help too.

Rnd 14: Sc evenly around, turn.

Rnd 15: (WS)(Short Rnd) 7 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 16: (RS)(Short Rnd) 7 sc. (7)

Rnd 17: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from Rnd 15, 14 sc. (14)

Rnd 18: [6 sc, inc] twice. (16)

Rnds 19-20: Sc evenly around.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Stuff.

Pin two 4 x 4 squares on the head, 3 sts apart in the front at Rnd 27, 5 sts apart in the back at Rnd 31.

Position horns so they arc back over head and out slightly, Short Rnds on the top. Use pins as a guide to sew horns to head. Add stuffing before completing attachment to stiffen.

Body

With TANG, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnds 2-3: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnds 5-6: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 7: [3 sc, inc] twice, turn. (10)

Rnd 8: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 5 sc, leave remaining 5 sts unworked, turn. (5)

Rnd 9: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 5 sc. (5)

Rnd 10: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 10 sc. (10)

Rnd 11: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 12: [4 sc, inc] twice, turn. (12)

Rnd 13: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 14: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc. (6)

Rnd 15: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 16: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 17: [5 sc, inc] twice, turn. (14)

Rnd 18: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 19: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc. (7)

Rnd 20: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 14 sc. (14)

Rnd 21: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 22: [6 sc, inc] twice, turn. (16)

Rnd 23: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 8 sts unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 24: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 25: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 26: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 24 (see Pattern Notes). (7)

Rnd 27: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 16 sc. (16)

Rnds 28-30: Sc evenly around.

Start stuffing. (see Pattern Notes)

Rnd 31: [7 sc, inc] twice, turn. (18)

Rnd 32: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining 9 sts unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 33: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 34: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 35: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 33. (8)

Rnd 36: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 18 sc. (18)

Rnds 37-39: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 40: [8 sc, inc] twice, turn. (20)

Rnd 41: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining 10 sts unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 42: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 43: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 44: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 42. (9)

Rnd 45: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 20 sc. (20)

Rnds 46-48: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 49: [9 sc, inc] twice, turn. (22)

Rnd 50: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining 11 sts unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 51: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 52: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 53: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 51. (10)

Rnd 54: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 22 sc. (22)

Rnds 55-57: Sc evenly around.

Continue Stuffing.

Rnd 58: [10 sc, inc] twice, turn. (24)

Rnd 59: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining 12 sts unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 60: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 61: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 62: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 63: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 64: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 62. (9)

Rnd 65: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 24 sc. (24)

Rnds 66-70: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 71: [11 sc, inc] twice, turn. (26)

Rnd 72: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining 13 sts unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 73: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 74: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 75: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 76: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 77: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 75. (10)

Rnd 78: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 26 sc. (26)

Charlie the Celestial Dragon amigurumi crochet pattern from Hooked by Kati

Rnds 79-83: Sc evenly around.

Continue Stuffing.

Rnd 84: [12 sc, inc] twice, turn. (28)

Rnd 85: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining 14 sts unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 86: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 87: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 88: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 89: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 90: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 88. (11)

Rnd 91: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 28 sc. (28)

Rnds 92-96: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 97: [13 sc, inc] twice, turn. (30)

Rnd 98: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, leave remaining 15 sts unworked, turn. (15)

Rnd 99: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 100: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 101: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 102: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 103: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 101. (12)

Rnd 104: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 30 sc. (30)

Rnd 105-109: Sc evenly around.

Continue Stuffing.

Rnd 110: [14 sc, inc] twice, turn. (32)

Rnd 111: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, leave remaining 16 sts unworked, turn. (16)

Rnd 112: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (15)

Rnd 113: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 114: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 115: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 116: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 114. (13)

Rnd 117: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 32 sc. (32)

Rnds 118-122: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 123: [15 sc, inc] twice, turn. (34)

Rnd 124: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 17 sc, leave remaining 17 sts unworked, turn. (17)

Rnd 125: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (16)

Rnd 126: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (15)

Rnd 127: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 128: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (13)

Place markers at each end of short rnd 128 (13 sts apart) to mark future leg attachments.

Rnd 129: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 127. (14)

Rnd 130: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 34 sc. (34)

Rnds 131-135: Sc evenly around.

Continue Stuffing.

Rnd 136: [16 sc, inc] twice, turn. (36)

Rnd 137: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 18 sc, leave remaining 18 sts unworked, turn. (18)

Rnd 138: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 17 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (17)

Rnd 139: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (16)

Rnd 140: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (15)

Rnd 141: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 142: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, sc in skipped st from Rnd 140. (15)

Rnd 143: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 36 sc. (36)

Rnds 144-148: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 149: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 18 sc, leave remaining 18 sts unworked, turn. (18)

Rnd 150: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 17 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (17)

Rnd 151: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (16)

Rnd 152: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (15)

Rnd 153: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 154: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 155: (WS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 156: (RS)(Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 157: (RS) Working in unworked sts from previous rnds, 36 sc. (36)

Continue Stuffing.

Rnd 158-199: Repeat Rnds 144-157 three more times.

Place markers at each end of last WS short rnd (Rnd 197) to mark future leg attachments.

Continue Stuffing.

Rnds 200-201: Sc evenly around. (36)

Rnd 202: [10 sc, dec] 3 times. (33)

Rnd 203: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 204: [9 sc, dec] 3 times. (30)

Rnd 205: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 206: [8 sc, dec] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 207: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 208: [7 sc, dec] 3 times. (24)

Rnd 209: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 210: [6 sc, dec] 3 times. (21)

Rnd 211: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 212: [5 sc, dec] 3 times. (18)

Rnd 213: Sc evenly around.

Finish stuffing.

Rnd 214: [Sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 215: Dec 6 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

You made it! That’s the longest part of the pattern. Once the body is done, you’re home free!

Legs

(Make 4)

Lower Leg and First Toe

With TANG, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnds 3-4: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 5: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 7: Skip 12, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 8: Leave skipped sts unworked to come back to later, 12 sc. (12)

Rnds 9-16: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 17: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 18: Begin first toe. 3 sc, skip 12, 3 sc, leave skipped sts unworked. (6)

Rnds 19-21: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 22: Change to ARAN, 6 sc.

Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 24: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Bind off and weave in ends.

Stuff lower leg to elbow.

Second Toe

Rnd 1: With TANG, sc join (see Pattern Stitches) in first skipped st of Rnd 18, 2 sc, skip 6, 3 sc. (6)

Rnds 2-4: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 5: Change to ARAN, 6 sc.

Rnd 6: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 7: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Bind off and weave in ends.

Third Toe

Rnd 1: With TANG, sc join in next skipped st of Rnd 18, 5 sc. (6)

Rnds 2-4: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 5: Change to ARAN, 6 sc.

Rnd 6: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 7: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Bind off and weave in ends.

Thigh

Rnd 1: With TANG, sc join in first skipped st of Rnd 7, 11 sc. (12)

Rnd 2: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] 3 times. (15)

Rnds 4-5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 3 times. (18)

Rnds 7-9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: [Sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Stuff.

Rnd 11: Dec 6 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.

Tip: Close gaps in the bend of the leg and between toes by sewing an ‘X’ with the starting tails and pulling tightly.

Place pins at the markers on Rnd 128 and Rnd 197. These will be the end point on the leg attachments.

Assume the short rounds are the “back” of the dragon and the smooth side of the body the “belly.”

Pointing the claws toward the “belly,” facing down, hold legs to body with point of thigh touching pins from marked sts. Pin where the leg touches the body in a downward facing “C.”

Sew legs to body using pins as a guide, sewing around the outside edge of the thigh and in a straight line under the armpit.

Curve claws down as desired.

Leg Embellishments

(Make 4)

With JADE, ch 10.

Row 1: Sl st in third ch from hook, sc, inc, 5 sc, turn. (8 sc, 1 picot)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in BLO, ch 7, turn. (2 sc, 7 chs)

Row 3: Sl st in third ch from hook, sc, inc, 2 sc, 2 sc in BLO, turn. (7 sc, 1 picot)

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in BLO, ch 6, turn. (2 sc, 6 chs)

Row 5: Sl st in third ch from hook, sc, inc, sc, 2 sc in BLO, turn. (6 s, 1 picot)

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in BLO, ch 5, turn. (2 sc, 5 chs)

Row 7: Sl st in third ch from hook, sc, inc, 2 sc in BLO, turn. (5 sc, 1 picot)

Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in BLO, ch 4, turn. (2 sc, 4 chs)

Row 9: Sl st in third ch from hook, inc, 2 sc in BLO. (4 sc, 1 picot)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Starting at the point of the thigh, at the attachment to the body, sew the frills shortest to longest in a straight line down the back of each leg.

Head Attachment

Hold head so that last round of head touches center of point of neck. Tilt head down in any direction as desired.

Use pins to mark where head and neck touch between Rnds 215 and 205.

Using the pins as a guide, sew head to neck.

Back Ridges

(Note: Work in both loops for this piece.)

With JADE, ch 5.

Row 1: Sl st in third ch from hook, inc, sc, turn. (3 sc, 1 picot)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc, ch 4, turn. (1 sc, 4 chs)

Row 3: Sl st in third ch from hook, inc, sc, turn. (3 sc, 1 picot)

Rows 4-101: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 forty-nine more times. (50 ridges total)

Bind off leaving a very long tail for sewing.

Assuming the short rounds are the back of the dragon, pin from the point of head attachment down the center of the back as it twists.

Using the pins as a guide, sew ridges from the tip of the head attachment down the center of the dragon’s back. Ridges should curve backwards. Ridges will end near hind legs; they will not go to the end of the tail.

Weave in all attachment ends when parts are positioned as desired.


All finished? Share your artwork by posting a picture in the Gallery!!

Post comments and pictures on social media with the hashtag #hookedbykati, or tag me @hookedbykati. You can also post pictures on the Facebook Page, or in the Hooked by Kati Crochet Community Facebook Group.

You may sell products made by this pattern, but please link back to hookedbykati.com or credit Hooked by Kati on the craft fair tag. Do not copy this pattern for distribution or sale; that’s not nice and also illegal.

If you run into a snag, drop me a line! I respond quickly and will help any way I can to clarify any confusion or challenging stitches.

Find more free patterns like this at allfreecrochet.com.

Here’s a few more FREE crochet patterns you might like:

WONDER THE BIRTHDAY DRAGON

VINCENT THE DRAGON

BASKET DRAGON

HATCHING DRAGON EGG

DRAGON SCALE HAND SANITIZER

Yarn on, 

Kati

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25 Comments

  1. Awesome pattern. Can you tell me what the 2 4×4 pieces are all about? is this some kind of reinforcement? Thank you in advance

  2. Love the pattern. For the embelishments on eyes, arms and spine I did use the loop stitch. After i cut the loops and brushed them out….omg the perfect eastern dragon. Thank you for the pattern <3

  3. Hello! This pattern is amazing I have finished the body and am now working on the head (not the order it goes in it just happened that way!).

    I’m confused about row 21 with fastening the eyes. what does it mean by outside the first and second increases?

    I’m excited to fasten the eyes!!

  4. What a joy it was to use this excellent pattern. I was a bit afraid that I was not experienced enough to make it, as I started crochet in spring 2021 and a lot of techniques were unknown to me, but in the few cases of doubt the photo’s helped me out! Next one to make will be Toby!

  5. How exactly are you supposed to skip 12 and then sc 12 in the leg? Do you chain those first 12 or literally leave 12 stiches open and continu in the 13sc (so you basically fold it in half). Please help someone.

    1. Ilse, The latter is correct, though you will skip 12, then work in the round on the 12 sc you work, essentially folding the tube in half. The Premium Pattern has a few pictures of how this is done, and it may be very helpful for you to see it. 🙂

      1. I’m at Rnd 9 and 10 of head.. It looks like one nostril is this right I’m to scread to continue cause shouldn’t there be 2 nostrils..? Love the bobble stitch new to this one but loved it…
        Thank you

  6. I can’t seem to figure out how to do the jade embellishment around the eyes
    I think I’m getting the orientation of the work twisted

    1. Hi
      I’ve been looking for reptile safety eyes but can’t find any. Where do you buy the ones you use?
      I live in Sweden but I guess it doesn’t matter where I live
      I’d very much appreciate to get to know your eye secret 🙏😍

      1. I ourchase my eyes from either JoAnns or Michaels/. WallMart has a limited supply of anything other than hooks, needles. The do have a decent supply of yarns and have increased shelf space at the store I go to here in Oregon. Same when I am at home in California.

  7. I have a question about the nostrils. When following the pattern it only gives me one nostril, how do I add the other one? How many stitches should be between them?

    1. Look back at it again. The first bobble st is the first stitch of the round, so it might blend in with the round number. There are two of them there, I promise. 🙂

  8. Enjoyed making this so much! It was larger than I expected but so cool. My grandson picked it out as he is obsessed with dragons.

    1. Is the amount of you have required just for the orange or is that total? I don’t have that much but I would really like to make it

  9. I have a question about the stitch markers. On row 77 it says to crochet in st on row 75. There is another st further down, do I move my marker there? You say in the instructions that the sts wont line up, and to move them accordingly. I just want to be sure that I Do move the st marker up to that extra st.

  10. I’m not quite finished with the whole project just yet, but I’m getting close to finishing the body right now and I’m OBSESSED with how it’s turning out!!! The pattern is so -refectory written and easy to follow, and I’m learning so many new techniques through this project. Thank you for sharing your work!!

  11. Just finished making Charlie, as a present for friends 18 year old son, changed colours to suit his request, brilliant instructions, looking forward to making more of your creations

    1. Hallo.
      Ich wollte den Drachen für meinen Enkel machen.Obwohl ich schon sehr viel gehäkelt habe,kann ich das Muster gar nicht verstehn.Schade.

  12. This is a beautiful pattern and I cannot wait to give it a try! Always looking for new amigurumi patterns to challenge me. The fun is in the process of the making and this guy looks like he is going to be super fun. Thanks so much!

    1. I love the way the body automatically spirals, when not moving the starting point of the round.
      In general, I love your patterns. It’s obvious, that you’ve put a lot of work into them. But I found a typo in the body. Rnd 64 you end by saying (turn), but we shouldn’t.
      One more thing, that I love about this pattern, is the way, the tail grabs my finger while I’m on the belly.

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