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Dragon claw clutch purse free crochet pattern
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Dragon Claw Clutch Purse | Free Crochet Pattern

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This dragon claw clutch purse is the perfect accessory to make you the talk of the renaissance faire! The claw opens with a magnetic clasp to allow you into the purse and protects your valuables. Amigurumi dragon claws are designed to grip the purse, while the thumb holds it closed. This fantasy purse adds some monster flair to your ensemble.

It has dividers for your phone, wallet, cards, and other bits and bobs.

Dragon Claw Clutch Purse free crochet pattern from Hooked by Kati

Construction

This is the first piece I have designed with this much hardware. Usually, the shiniest thing I have in my studio is coffee! But this purse pattern needed to be versatile and functional, so it contains a magnetic snap, D rings, and an adjustable strap buckle so you can wear it over the shoulder or as a cross-body bag.

Blending amigurumi techniques with classic crochet, and even a Tunisian crochet strap, this purse will teach you all kinds of useful skills. Plus it looks really cool. 🙂

The Premium Pattern 2.0 is an excellent way to work this pattern, especially if you have never assembled a purse before. Some things are just hard to explain without pictures. I made sure to add photos of every assembly and challenging shape, including the short rounds and use of the hardware.

Upgrading your pattern to Premium Pattern 2.0 will upgrade your whole creative experience. Give yourself that gift. You deserve to really enjoy creating your art.

You can get the Premium Pattern 2.0 on Ravelry or Etsy.

Dragon Claw Clutch Purse | Free Crochet Pattern

Pattern is written in English, in US terms, using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

You Need to Know:

Chains (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), Right side (RS), Wrong side (WS), increases and decreases, mattress stitch sewing. Tunisian abbreviations will be forward pass (FwdP) and return pass (RetP). Experience with Tunisian crochet is helpful, but not necessary.  Be eager to learn and ready to have fun!

For a quick refresher of these basic skills, go to www.hookedbykati.com/basics

You Will Practice Intermediate Techniques:

  • How to shape amigurumi using short rounds
  • How to shape using increases and decreases
  • How to create a sturdy strap with Tunisian crochet
  • How to use amigurumi parts to make cool accessories

Supplies

Measurements

Purse is 9” wide x 5” tall

Gauge

In [sc, skip 1, ch 1] pattern, 11 sts (including chs) x 10 rows = 2” x 2”

Pattern Notes

  • For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
  • Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case pieces require repositioning.
  • Ch-2 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch.
  • Rounds labeled “Short round” are worked back and forth and will end before the round is complete, leaving stitches deliberately unworked to be worked in later rounds as instructed.
  • When instructed, an additional sc(s) will be added at the end of a round to move the starting stitch of the next round to the left (clockwise). This does not change the stitch count of the round. It only moves the starting point.
  • Strap is worked in Tunisian crochet. You will not need a different hook for this section. Tunisian crochet is similar to knitting in that you will pick up several loops on the forward pass (FwdP) and then work through those loops on a return pass (RetP) to finish the stitches. A FwdP and RetP count as one row.

For a brief tutorial of this Tunisian crochet strap, check out this video!

Special Stitches

  • Sc join – Single crochet join: With long starting tail, make slip knot in yarn, loop slip knot over hook, insert hook through stitch, yo, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. Leave starting tail on outside of work.

Instructions

Thank you for sticking around and reading my patterns right here on the blog, without copy/pasting. When you stay here to follow patterns, I am compensated for my time and energy. This is a great, free way to support a designer. If you would like to save this for later, press CTRL + D to bookmark the page or click the heart/star on your mobile browser.

Body of Purse

With SPIN, ch 49.

As you work, place markers at both ends of Row 22 and Row 44. (marked with * on checkboxes)

Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, [ch 1, skip 1, sc] 23 times, turn. (24 sc, 47 sts total)

Row 2: Ch 2 (see Pattern Notes), skip 1st st, [sc in ch sp, ch 1, skip 1] 24 times, sc in ch-2 sp, turn. (24 sc, 47 sts total)

Rows 3-66: Repeat Row 2.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Small Inside Pocket

With SPIN, ch 17.

Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, [ch 1, skip 1, sc] 7 times, turn. (8 sc, 15 sts total)

Row 2: Ch 2, skip 1st st, [sc in ch sp, ch 1, skip 1] 7 times, sc in ch-2 sp, turn. (8 sc, 15 sts total)

Rows 3-14: Repeat Row 2.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Attach Small Pocket

Lay purse body on flat surface with starting chain at the bottom. Lay small pocket on purse body, between rows 4 and 18 and about 6 sts from the left edge. Using the tail, sew the inside pocket to the purse on 3 sides with the BOTTOM edge open (the edge nearest the starting chain).

Tip on sewing: When sewing to the purse, sew horizontally through the front of the sc sts only, working in a sort of zig-zag along the line you wish to work, and sew vertically between the scs. This keeps the work from puckering on the opposite side from the attachment.

Purse Divider

With SPIN, ch 49. Leave extra long tail for sewing.

Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, [ch 1, skip 1, sc] 23 times, turn. (24 sc, 47 sts total)

Row 2: Ch 2, skip 1st st, [sc in ch sp, ch 1, skip 1] 24 times, sc in ch-2 sp, turn. (24 sc, 47 sts total)

Rows 3-18: Repeat Row 2.

Bind off and weave in finishing end.

Attach Divider

With the long starting tail of the purse divider, sewing through the starting chain, sew the divider to the purse along Row 22 (marked).

Seam Sides of Purse

Turn purse body over (small pocket side down). Fold bottom edge of purse up to meet the starting chain with Row 44 (marked). This should be 3-4 rows above the divider and leave 4 rows where the work is only 2 layers thick. The divider will be on the outside of the work at this point and the small pocket on the other side.

Hold “purse sandwich” with small pocket side facing down.  Using a new strand of SPIN, sc join (see Special Stitches) where starting chain meets Row 44, working through 2 layers, 3 sc, sc up the side of the work working in all 3 layers. Bind off at the fold.

Hold “purse sandwich” so the small pocket side faces up. Using a new strand of SPIN, sc join in the bottom fold of the raw edge where the 3 layers meet. Working through all 3 layers, sc up the side of the work, 4 sc through only two layers past the divide. Bind off where the starting chain meets Row 44.

Turn purse right side out so the divider and small pocket are on the inside. Close flap over opening. Flap should NOT reach the bottom edge but should cover most of the purse.

Set purse aside.

Fingers

(Make 3)

All 3 fingers will be identical to Round 25. Extra rounds are added to Fingers 2 and 3 to change their length.

With STO, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] twice, turn. (8)

Rnd 5: (WS) (Short Rnd) (see Pattern Notes) Do not chain, 4 sc, leave remaining 4 sts for future use, turn. (4)

Rnd 6: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 4 sc, do not turn. (4)

Rnd 7: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 8 sc. (8)

Rnd 8: Change to SPIN, [Sc, inc] 4 times. (12)

Rnd 9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: Sc evenly around, sc to move starting st (see Pattern Notes), turn. (12)

Rnd 11: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked for future use, turn. (6)

Rnd 12: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, do not turn. (6)

Rnd 13: Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 12 sc.

Rnd 14: [4 sc, dec] twice. (10)

Rnds 15-17: Sc evenly around.

Stuff claw and first knuckle.

Rnd 18: [Sc, inc] 5 times, 3 sc to move starting st, turn. (15)

Rnd 19: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked for future use, turn. (8)

Rnd 20: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 21: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 15 sc, turn. (15)

Rnd 22: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked for future use, turn. (8)

Rnd 23: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 24: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 15 sc. (15)

Rnd 25: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 26 (Fingers 2 and 3 Only): Sc evenly around.

Rnd 27 (Finger 3 Only): Sc evenly around.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Stuff to second knuckle. Leave unstuffed near opening so last round can be pressed flat for attachment.

Press last round flat with last st and 1st st together. This will NOT be parallel to the short rounds, rather at a slight slant so the fingers sit at an angle after attachment.

Thumb

With STO, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] twice, turn. (8)

Rnd 5: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 4 sc, leave remaining 4 sts for future use, turn. (4)

Rnd 6: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 4 sc, do not turn. (4)

Rnd 7: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 8 sc. (8)

Rnd 8: Change to SPIN, [Sc, inc] 4 times. (12)

Rnd 9: [2 sc, inc] 4 times. (16)

Rnd 10: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 11: Sc evenly around, sc to move starting st, turn. (16)

Rnd 12: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 8 sc unworked for future use, turn. (8)

Rnd 13: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 14: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 16 sc, turn. (16)

Rnd 15: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 8 sc unworked for future use, turn. (8)

Rnd 16: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 17: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 16 sc. (16)

Rnds 18-22: Sc evenly around. At end of Rnd 22, 2 sc to move starting st.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Stuff claw and thumb. Leave unstuffed near opening so last round can be pressed flat for attachment.

Press last round flat.

Thumb Attachment

Hold thumb to purse with purse closed. The flattened last round of the thumb will be in line with the bottom edge of the purse, the claw will reach up over the purse flap. Hold slightly right of center. Mark where claw touches the flap on both the flap and the claw.

Using strand of SPIN, sew flatter side of magnetic snap on pad of thumb where it touches the purse. Sew larger side of magnet snap to outside of purse flap where it touched the thumb.

Snap thumb to purse as it will be when closed. Use this alignment to sew through both layers of flattened thumb and bottom edge of purse. Weave in ends.

Finger Attachments

For step-by-step photos of the finger attachments, upgrade to the Premium Pattern 2.0.

Fingers should be arranged across the top edge of the purse with the flap closed, Fingers 3, 2, and 1 from left to right.

Sew all 3 fingers along the same row of the purse along the top edge, sewing through both layers of the flattened last round of the fingers and along the top of the purse.

Fingers 2 and 3 will be to the left of the thumb, and Finger 1 will be to the right of the thumb.

Attach Finger 2 first, just to the left of the thumb.

Attach Finger 3 left of Finger 2 with no stitches between them.

Attach Finger 1 to the right of the thumb, about 5 sts from Finger 2.

With scrap ends or excess tails, tack down the pads of each finger to the flap, being careful to only sew fingers to the flap and not through more than one layer.

Strap

For a brief tutorial of this Tunisian crochet strap, check out this video!

(see Pattern Notes)

Ch 6, leaving long starting tail for sewing.

Row 1: (FwdP) Pull up a loop in second ch from hook, pull up a loop in each of next 4 chs, do not turn. (6 loops on hook)

Row 1: (RetP) [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times, do not turn.

Row 2: (FwdP) Insert hook behind 2nd vertical bar and pull up a loop, pull up a loop from each vertical bar across. Be sure to pull up a loop from last vertical bar. (6 loops on hook)

Row 2: (RetP) [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times, do not turn.

Repeat Row 2 (FwdP and RetP) until strap measures 56 inches long. (About 220 rows)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

D-Ring Loops

(Make 2)

Ch 5, leaving long starting tail for sewing.

Row 1: (FwdP) Pull up a loop in second ch from hook, pull up a loop in each of next 3 chs, do not turn. (5 loops on hook)

Row 1: (RetP) [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 4 times, do not turn.

Row 2: (FwdP) Insert hook behind 2nd vertical bar and pull up a loop, pull up a loop from each vertical bar across. Be sure to pull up a loop from last vertical bar. (5 loops on hook)

Row 2: (RetP) [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 4 times, do not turn.

Rows 3-10: Repeat Row 2 (FwdP and RetP) eight more times.  

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Strap Assembly and Attachment

Fold about 4 rows of one end of the strap up through one side of the adjustable buckle and down on the other side of the middle bar, wrong side to wrong side. Using end tail, sew the strap to itself, wrong side to wrong side, so it is wrapped around the center post of the adjustable buckle and secure.

 Thread the free end of the strap through D ring until it is about 12” from the buckle. Be sure it is right side out.

Being careful not to twist, thread the free end of the strap up through the adjustable buckle, over the end attachment, and down the other side of the buckle. Pull free end through until the loop between the purse and buckle is about 12” long.

Being careful not to twist, fold about 4 rows of the free end of strap inside to inside around the flat end of the other D ring. Using end tail, sew the strap to itself, wrong side to wrong side, so it is wrapped around the D ring and secure.

Open the purse to expose the inside edges. Hold one D-Ring Loop to the inside edge of the purse in the gap left above the inside divider, along the seam of the purse. Sew one end of flap with right side facing the outside the purse, down each side and across the end to secure it to the purse. The loop will cover the seam exposed between the inside divider and the edge of the purse.

With right side of strap facing out, insert loop through either D ring and fold in half to enclose the rounded side of the D ring. Sew other end of loop to the first end of the loop, down each side and across the end.

 Being careful not to twist, repeat on other side of purse with D ring on other end of the strap.

Weave in all attachment ends when parts are positioned as desired.

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All finished? Share your artwork by posting a picture in the Gallery!!

Post comments and pictures on social media with the hashtag #hookedbykati, or tag me @hookedbykati. You can also post pictures on the Facebook Page, or in the Hooked by Kati Crochet Community Facebook Group.

You may sell products made by this pattern, but please link back to hookedbykati.com or credit Hooked by Kati on the craft fair tag. Do not copy this pattern for distribution or sale; that’s not nice and also illegal.

If you run into a snag, drop me a line! I respond quickly and will help any way I can to clarify any confusion or challenging stitches.

Find more free patterns like this at allfreecrochet.com.

Here are some more free mythical creature crochet patterns for you:

DRAGON EYE PILLOW

ANDUIN THE GRYPHON

VINCENT THE DRAGON

DRAGON SCALE CLUTCH

Yarn on,

Kati

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