Dragon Eye Tote Bag | Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet your own Dragon Eye Tote Bag with this free amigurumi-inspired crochet pattern! Perfect for dragon lovers, fantasy fans, and geeky crafters, this DIY tote bag pattern lets you create a unique, texture-rich accessory that blends fantasy decor flair with everyday practicality. Whether you’re carrying books, yarn, or your daily essentials, this dragon eye crochet tote bag is a fun and functional project for intermediate to advanced crocheters who want a magical twist on a classic bag.

The inspiration for this fantasy dragon tote bag came from my love of mythical creatures and gothic home decor. While working on the Dragon Eye Pillow crochet project, I kept imagining it as something wearable and functional, a magical accessory you could carry anywhere. After sketching a few ideas, I realized that scaling down the dragon eye and adjusting the design could create the perfect fantasy tote bag crochet pattern—a little piece of magic you can take with you wherever you go.

This dragon eye tote bag crochet project isn’t just a fun craft—it’s incredibly versatile. Use it as a book bag, yarn project tote, or everyday bag, or display it as a fantasy-inspired home decor accent when not in use. It also makes a thoughtful handmade gift for dragon enthusiasts, teens, or anyone who loves unique geeky accessories. Imagine gifting it for a birthday, holiday, or special occasion—the bold dragon eye is sure to be a conversation-starting crochet gift! You can even double the straps for extra strength, perfect for carrying books, rocks, or even dragon eggs. 😉

Putting Together Your Dragon Eye Tote Bag

I tried to make this tote bag both functional and texture-rich. It has a sturdy, flat bottom, made so by using a sheet of plastic canva to reinforce the two-layer bag base. The sides are made with a familiar stitch, if you have ever made the Textured Dragon Egg or Anduin the Gryphon. It is strong and doesn’t allow anything to sneak through the stitches, like that lip balm that always at the bottom of your bag, and it will hold up for years to come.

The eye itself is similar to the Dragon Eye Pillow, but not identical. I had to scale down the eye, decrease the number of horns, and change up a lot of stitch counts to get it to a size I liked without it losing any character. However, if you have done the Dragon Eye Pillow, you can easily catch on to this one. The changes are important, but the basic concept is the same.

If you want to make this tote bag even easier and more enjoyable to create, the Premium Pattern is a perfect upgrade. The PDF is ad-free, printable, and professionally formatted, with extra step-by-step photos that show exactly how to handle the eye, horns, and textured sides. It also includes checklists for every round, so you can keep track of your progress without worrying about losing your place. With these added guides and print-only perks, the Premium Pattern takes all the guesswork out of the complex parts, making your project smoother, faster, and even more satisfying to complete.

Get the Premium Pattern PDF

(or keep scrolling for the free version)

Unlock the Premium Version of this pattern! Our Premium Patterns are beautifully formatted, ad-free PDF files that you can print and keep forever. They include extra step-by-step photos, helpful checkboxes for every round, and exclusive print-only perks you won’t find in the free version—making your crochet experience smoother, easier, and even more enjoyable.

Premium Patterns are available in the Hooked by Kati Shop, Ravelry, and Etsy.

Purchase the Premium PDF

Dragon Eye Pillow | Free Crochet Pattern

Pattern is written in English, in US terms, using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

You Will Practice Intermediate Techniques:

• How to use texture stitches
• How to add plastic canvas to create a flat-bottom tote bag
• How to integrate 3D pieces on flat crochet
• How to use amigurumi skills to make fun accessories
• How to use Tunisian Crochet to make a bag strap

Supplies

• Big Twist Value yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 380 yds/6 oz/170 g,; Dark Grey (GRY), 3 balls; Varsity Gold (GOLD), < 1 ball; Black (BLK), < 1 ball.
• Red Heart Super Saver yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 364 yds/7 oz/198 g, Cornmeal (CORN), < 1 ball.
• Hobbii Metallico, 70% Polyamide, 21% Acrylic, 9% Merino Wool, 125.77 yd (115 m)/1.76 oz/50 g, Gold Metallic (MET), < 1 ball.
• G (4.00 mm) Furls hook
• Polyfil stuffing
• Plastic canvas, cut into an oval 11” long and 3” wide
• Tapestry needle
• Straight pins
• Stitch markers

Measurements

• 14” x 14” tote bag, when laying flat
• Bottom of bag is “11 long x 3” wide

Gauge

• Gauge for base and eye: 8 sts x 8 sts = 2”
• Gauge for bag:  8 sts x 12 rows = 2”

Pattern Notes

• Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
• For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
• Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case pieces require repositioning.

Special Stitches

• SPsc 1 row below – Spike single crochet 1 row below: Insert hook into st one row below working st, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• SPsc 2 rows below – Spike single crochet 2 rows below: Insert hook into st two rows below working st, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
• Picot – Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3^rd ch from hook.
• Bobble-st – Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times in same st, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Dragon Eye Tote Bag Instructions

Thank you for sticking around and reading my patterns right here on the blog, without copy/pasting. When you stay here to follow patterns, I am compensated for my time and energy. This is a great, free way to support a designer. If you would like to save this for later, click the heart/star on your mobile browser or press CTRL + D on your keyboard to bookmark the page.

Bag Bottoms

(Make 2)

With GRY, ch 33.

Foundation Row: Sc in second ch from hook, 31 sc, turn. (32)

Rnd 1: Do not chain, inc twice, 28 sc, inc twice, do not turn, rotate and work in bottom side of chain, inc twice, 28 sc, inc twice. (72)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice, 30 sc, [sc, inc] 4 times, 30 sc, [sc, inc] twice. (78)

Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] twice, 30 sc, [2 sc, inc] 4 times, 30 sc, [2 sc, inc] twice. (86)

Rnd 4: [3 sc, inc] twice, 30 sc, [3 sc, inc] 4 times, 30 sc, [3 sc, inc] twice. (94)

Rnd 5: [4 sc, inc] twice, 30 sc, [4 sc, inc] 4 times, 30 sc, [4 sc, inc] twice. (104)

Bind off one Bag Bottom. Leave working yarn attached to second Bag Bottom to continue Tote Bag.

Cont’ Tote Bag

Sandwich plastic canvas piece between Bag Bottoms, RS facing out. Trim plastic canvas as needed to fit inside oval.

Rnd 6: With working yarn from second Bag Base, working in both layers of the Bag Bottoms, keeping the plastic canvas between them, sc evenly around. This will close the plastic canvas inside the bottom of the tote bag. (104)

Rnd 7: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 8: [Sc, SPsc 1 row below] 52 times. (see Special Stitches) (104)

Here’s a video for the Spike Stitch!

Rnd 9: [Spike-st 1 below, sc] 52 times. (104)

Rnds 10-89: Repeat Rnds 8 and 9 until tote bag measures ~14” tall and wide.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Tote Bag Straps

(Make 2)

(Optional: Make 2 additional straps to make an extra-sturdy book bag)

Straps are made in Tunisian Crochet simple stitch, involving a Forward Pass (FwdP) and a Return Pass (RetP) for each row.

With BLK, Ch 8, leaving long starting tail for sewing.

Row 1: (FwdP) Pull up a loop in second ch from hook, pull up a loop in each of next 7 chs, do not turn. (8 loops on hook)

Row 1: (RetP) [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 7 times, do not turn.

Row 2: (FwdP) Insert hook behind 2^nd vertical bar and pull up a loop, pull up a loop from each vertical bar across. Be sure to pull up a loop from last vertical bar. (8 loops on hook)

Row 2: (RetP) [Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook] 7 times, do not turn.

Repeat Row 2 (FwdP and RetP) until strap measures 24 inches long. (About 84 rows)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Dragon Eyeball

With MET, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 6 times. (36)

Rnd 7: Change to GOLD, [sc, SPsc 2 rows below (see Special Stitches)] 18 times. (36)

Watch this video for the Spike Stitch!

Rnd 8: [5 sc, inc] 6 times. (42)

Rnd 9: [6 sc, inc] 6 times. (48)

Rnd 10: [7 sc, inc] 6 times. (54)

Rnd 11: Change to CORN, [sc, spike-st 2 below ] 27 times. (54)

Rnd 12: [8 sc, inc] 6 times. (60)

Rnd 13: [9 sc, inc] 6 times. (66)

Rnd 14: [10 sc, inc] 6 times. (72)

Rnd 15: [11 sc, inc] 6 times. (78)

Rnd 16: Sc evenly around.

Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing.

Set aside.

Eye Slit

With BLK, ch 22.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 20 sc, turn. (21)

Rnd 2: (worked around Row 1) Do not chain, inc, 9 sc, (dc, picot (see Special Stitches), dc) in next st, 9 sc, inc, do not turn work, rotate so starting ch faces up, working in back of starting ch, inc, 9 sc, (dc, picot, dc) in next st, 9 sc, inc. (56)

Rnd 3: Change to MET, inc, 11 sc, 3 sc in picot, 11 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc, 3 sc in picot, 11 st, inc, sl st in 1^st st to join. (66)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Set aside.

Small Dragon Horn

(Make 1)

With BLK, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Set aside.

Medium Dragon Horns

(Make 2)

With BLK, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)

Rnd 4: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)

Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Set aside.

Large Dragon Horn

(Make 1)

With BLK, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)

Rnd 4: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)

Rnd 5: [5 sc, inc] twice. (14)

Rnd 6: [6 sc, inc] twice. (16)

Rnd 7: Sc evenly around.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Set aside.

Upper Eyelid

With GRY, ch 48.

Row 1: Hdc in third ch from hook, 45 hdc. turn. (46)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count at st), 46 hdc, turn. (46)

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2.

Row 6 (RS): Ch 1, fold work in half longways, working through next st and back side of corresponding st of starting ch, 46 sc, turn. (46)

Row 7 (WS): Ch 1, sl st 12, [10 sc, inc] 3 times, sc, turn. (12 sl st, 37 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, 4 sc, [bobble-st, 3 sc (see Special Stitches)] 8 times, sc, turn. (37)

Leave slipped sts unworked.

Row 9: Ch 1, [11 sc, inc] 3 times, sc, turn. (40)

Row 10: Ch 1, 11 sc, hold eyeball behind work, RS facing WS of eyelid, working through last rnd of both eyelid and eyeball, 28 sc, 1 sc on eyelid only, turn. (12 sts on eyelid, 28 sts through both layers)

Row 11: Ch 1, [12 sc, inc] 3 times, sc, turn. (43)

Row 12: Ch 1, [3 sc, bobble-st] 8 times, 9 sc, dec, turn. (42)

Row 13: Ch 1, dec, 40 sc, turn. (41)

Row 14: Ch 1, 3 sc on eyelid only, hold Large Horn RS to RS to eyelid, working through ONE layer of horn and eyelid, 8 sc, sc on eyelid only, hold Medium Horn RS to RS to eyelid, working through ONE layer of horn and eyelid, 6 sc, sc on eyelid only, hold Medium Horn RS to RS to eyelid, working through ONE layer of horn and eyelid, 6 sc, sc on eyelid only, hold Small Horn RS to RS to eyelid, working through ONE layer of horn and eyelid, 5 sc, 8 sc on eyelid only, dec, turn. (4 horns attached, 40 sts total)

Row 15: Do not chain, dec, 7 sc, 5 sc on Small Horn only, sc, 6 sc on Medium Horn only, sc, 6 sc on Medium Horn only, sc, 8 sc on Large Horn only, 3 sc, turn. (39)

Row 16: Ch 1, 37 sc, dec. (38)

Bind off leaving VERY long tail for sewing.

Push bobbles out to RS. Lightly stuff horns.

With eyeball facing up, count 10 sts down the left side. Place marker in 10^th st. Count 14 sts down right side. Place marker in 14^th st.

Lower Eyelid

With GRY, ch 44.

Row 1: Hdc in third ch from hook, 41 hdc, turn. (42)

Row 2: Ch 2, 42 hdc, turn.

Rows 3-4: Repeat Row 2.

Row 5: Ch 1, fold work in half longways, working through next st and back side of corresponding st of starting ch, 42 sc, turn. (42)

Row 6: Ch 1, [4 sc, bobble-st] 8 times, 2 sc, turn. (8 bobbles, 34 scs)

Row 7: Ch 1, 8 sc on eyelid only, rotate Eyeball so you are working on the bottom side, hold eyeball behind work, RS facing WS of lower eyelid, aligning sts between markers with lower eyelid (do not work into marked sts), working through both layers, 26 sc, 8 sc on eyelid only, turn. (16 sts on eyelid, 26 sts through both layers)

Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc, [bobble-st, 4 sc] 8 times, turn. (8 bobbles, 34 sc)

Row 9: Ch 1, 27 sc, turn. (27)

Row 10: Ch 1, 26 sc, sl st. (26 sc, 1 sl st)

Bind off and weave in ends.

Push bobbles out to RS.

Attaching Dragon Eye to Tote Bag

Lay eyeball and lids on tote bag, angling the left side down slightly. Pin in place, making sure to only pin through one side of the tote bag. (Don’t accidentally sew your tote bag closed!) Use long tail of Upper Eyelid to sew around top edge of eyelid to the tote bag. Leave folded hdc edge unattached to bag.

With long strand of GRY, starting at last st of Upper Eyelid, sew to bag along the outside edges of both the Upper and Lower eyelid. Leave all folded hdc edges unattached to bag.  

When you reach the left side of the Bottom Eyelid, skip the folded edge of the Upper Eyelid in the inner crease of the eye, and sew down only the top edge of the long strip on the inner corner and back up the eyelid to your starting point.

With the sewing tail of the eyeball, sew the right side of the eyeball to the bag.

Stuff the eyeball lightly.

With a strand of CORN, sew the left side of the eyeball to the bag.

Pin eye slit into place, vertically on the eyeball in relation to the tote bag, each end under the eyelids. Slit will not be aligned with eyelids, but it will be vertically in line on the tote bag.

Use MET tail to sew eye slit to eyeball.

Optional: Use a strand of GRY to sew along the underside of the eyelids where they do not touch the eyeball. These places can allow stuffing to escape if tote bag is washed.

Attach Handles To Tote Bag

Lay bag flat and measure in 2 inches from either side. Pin a strap to the inside of the bag, outside edge 2 inches from the side, with 2 inches of the strap touching the bag.

Pin other end of same strap on same side of bag, outside edge 2 inches from the other side, 2 inches down into the bag. Straps will be 7-8″ apart on the inside. Sewing through the front of the Spike-sts on the bag, sew a rectangle around the outside edge of the strap and across the top of the bag where it touches the strap.

Repeat on other side of bag.

Optional: If you choose to double the straps, attach second strap on each side with bag sandwiched between it and the first strap. Mattress stitch straps together.

Weave in all attachment ends when parts are positioned as desired.

© Hooked by Kati LLC 2017-2025

Not ready to start? Save this pattern for later!

All finished? Share your artwork by posting a picture in the Gallery!!

Post comments and pictures on social media with the hashtag #hookedbykati, or tag me @hookedbykati. You can also post pictures on the Facebook Page, or in the Epic Amigurumi Patterns and Crochet Inspiration Facebook Group.

You may sell products made by this pattern, but please link back to hookedbykati.com or credit Hooked by Kati on the craft fair tag. Do not copy this pattern for distribution or sale; that’s not nice and also illegal.

If you run into a snag, drop me a line! I respond quickly and will help any way I can to clarify any confusion or challenging stitches.

Find more free patterns like this at allfreecrochet.com.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I crochet a dragon eye tote bag?
My free pattern walks you step-by-step through making a texture-rich, functional Dragon Eye Tote Bag, including the flat bottom, reinforced base, and scaled-down dragon eye. For the best artistic experience, I recommend upgrading to the Premium Pattern 2.0, so you also get checkboxes, color tutorial photos, and a printable format.

What yarn and hook do I need for a crochet tote bag?
We recommend worsted-weight yarn and a crochet hook that matches your gauge. The pattern also uses plastic canvas to reinforce the base for a sturdy, long-lasting bag. You can find that at any craft store or on Amazon.

Can beginners make this dragon eye crochet bag?
While I don’t think this should be your first crochet project ever, it can be done by adventurous beginners. The bag has some texture and detailing, and is designed for intermediate crocheters, but you can do it, especially if you’re familiar with textured stitches from other amigurumi projects.

How do I make the dragon eye look realistic?
The dragon eye uses shaping, horn placement, and stitch count adjustments to create a detailed look. Step-by-step photos in the premium PDF make it even easier to follow. For extra POW, add more metallic yarn in the eye, or try out more exciting color combinations.

What’s the difference between the free and premium dragon eye tote pattern?
The premium version includes extra tutorial photos, checklists for every round, and printable formatting to make the project smoother, faster, and mistake-free.

How do I prevent items from slipping through the crochet tote?
This bag is dense and reinforced using familiar textured stitches and a plastic canvas bottom, so small items like lip balm or keys won’t sneak through. If your gauge matches the pattern recommendations, you shouldn’t have any problems.

Can I sell bags made from this crochet pattern?
Yes! Finished tote bags can be sold, but the pattern itself may not be redistributed.

How long does it take to crochet a dragon eye tote bag?
Depending on skill level, the bag may take 8 hours to a few days. Using the premium PDF can speed up the process by making instructions clear and easy to follow, and allowing you to work on it while watching TV in your favorite chair.

More Dragon Patterns For You

Charlie the Celestial Dragon

Toby the Newborn Dragon

Vincent the Dragon

Dragon Scale Clutch (or Pencil Pouch)