Dragon Wreath | Free Crochet pattern

If you’ve ever wanted a crochet wreath that’s bold, imaginative, and not tied to a single season, this Dragon Wreath crochet pattern is for you. This free pattern walks you through creating a fully dimensional dragon amigurumi wreath using advanced 3D crochet techniques—designed to be displayed year-round and customized for every holiday.

Unlike traditional wreaths, this dragon wreath is built using 3D amigurumi construction, giving the dragon depth, movement, and a sculptural presence. One of the standout features of this design is the no-sew dragon scales that wrap around the outer edge of the wreath, creating rich texture without the frustration of endless sewing. The result is a polished, professional-looking piece that feels just as magical on your wall as it does on your hook.

This dragon wreath is also the foundation of an upcoming year-long crochet project, where seasonal and holiday embellishments will be released throughout the year. Instead of making a new wreath for every holiday, you can keep the same dragon base on display and simply add themed elements—making this a versatile, creative project you can come back to again and again. Whether you’re decorating for winter, spring, spooky season, or something entirely fantastical, this wreath is designed to evolve with you.

Putting Together Your Dragon Wreath

This is one of those projects that looks much harder than it actually is. You will be making a large amount of scales to create the actual wreath, but you won’t have to sew a single one onto the wreath. How?

After you have finished your scales, you’ll make a flat piece with some short rows on either side that create the outside of the wreath that will wrap around the foam base. As you create this piece, you will single crochet through the last round of the flattened scales to attach them to the piece without sewing. Easy peasy! (And my faster than trying to sew all those scales!)

Oddball Stitches Used

As with most amigurumi-based designs, the vast majority of this piece is done in single crochet (sc). There are very few exceptions. You will be using bobble stitches for the nostrils (in a contrasting color to really make them pop!), and you’ll need to know your front loop only/back loop only (FLO/BLO) techniques for some of the necessary shaping.

Crazy Wreath Shaping

Wreaths can be tricky to make look right.

While you can just make a long, flat piece, and sew it in place around the foam ring, using a simple method like this creates undesirable effects on the wreath form. If you measure around the outside edge of the foam wreath, you’ll find that the outside edge is longer than the inside edge of the foam wreath.

So if you were to make a straight, flat piece to fit the outside, it will pucker on the inside. If you make it to fit the inside, it will have to stretch quite a bit around the outside.

To solve this problem, I’ve incorporated short rows into the “flat” piece where our scales will attach. This means that the piece will naturally curve like a wreath, and when you sew it in place around the foam, the inside edge has the proper amount of stitches to prevent puckering or stretching.

For this reason, I HIGHLY recommend doing a gauge swatch, and I would not recommend changing the size of the wreath. Maybe someday I will write the pattern for a larger version, but for now, trust my math and use the foam ring that is recommended (1.7″ x 11.7″).

Attachments on the wreath are pretty straightforward — the belly scales, head, wings, and tail sew onto the “body” of the wreath. But there are some places where the photo tutorials inside the Premium pattern will be very helpful. Testers also said that the checkboxes were very important in this pattern because of all the scales you will make and to keep track of the wing segments as you craft your wings.

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Dragon Wreath | Free Crochet Pattern

Pattern is written in English, in US terms, using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

You Need to Know

Chains (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), back loops only (BLO), front loops only (FLO), Right side (RS), Wrong side (WS), increases (inc) and decreases (dec), mattress stitch sewing. Be eager to learn and ready to have fun!

For a quick refresher of these basic skills, go to www.hookedbykati.com/basics

You Will Practice Intermediate Techniques

• How to shape amigurumi using short rounds
• How to use pins to perfectly place and attach amigurumi parts
• How to crochet on the surface of a 3D object
• How to shape using increases and decreases

Supplies

• Red Heart Super Saver yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 364 yds/7 oz/198 g, Hunter Green (HUNT), 2 balls; Soft White (WHT), < 1 ball; Black (BLK), < 1 ball; Cornmeal (YEL), < 1 ball.
• Big Twist Value yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 380 yds/6 oz/170 g, Slime (SLIM), 1 ball.
• Big Twist Value Twinkle yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 380 yds/6 oz/170 g, Mulberry (MUL), 1 ball.
• G (4.00 mm) hook
• 1 stiff foam wreath ring, 1.7” x 11.7”
• Two 10-inch pieces of wire, 16-18 gauge, ends curved under so they aren’t sharp
• Polyfil stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Straight pins
• Stitch markers (optional)
• 3M hooks in two sizes, one for center of wreath and two small ones for tips of wings (optional)

Measurements

24” wide x 18” tall

Gauge

8 sts x 8 rows in sc = 2” x 2”

Pattern Notes

• Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
• For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
• Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case pieces require repositioning.
• Scale Wreath is constructed with all Large Scales on the RS of the work.
• Rounds labeled “Short Rnd or Row” are worked back and forth and will end before the round is complete, leaving stitches deliberately unworked to be worked later as instructed.
• When instructed, an additional sc(s) will be added at the end of a round to move the starting stitch of the next round to the left (clockwise). This does not change the stitch count of the round. It only moves the starting point.

Special Stitches

• Bobble-st – Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times in same st, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.
• Sc3tog – Single crochet 3 together – [Insert hook through next st, yo, pull up a loop] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on the hook.
• Surface sc – Surface single crochet: With loop on hook, insert hook around post or between stitches of finished work, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops on hook. Work single crochets on top of finished work.

Instructions

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Belly Scales

With MUL, ch 11.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 9 sc, turn. (10)

Rows 2-108: Ch 1, 10 sc in BLO, turn. (10)

Change to HUNT, 108 sc down long side of rectangle, bind off, leaving long tail for sewing. With new strand of HUNT, sl st in 1^st st of next long side, 108 sc up other long side of rectangle, bind off, leaving long tail for sewing.

Large Scales

(Make 18 in HUNT, 18 in SLIM)

With HUNT, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (8)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 4 times. (12)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 5: [2 sc, inc] 4 times. (16)

Rnd 6: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 7: [3 sc, inc] 4 times. (20)

Rnd 8: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 9: [4 sc, inc] 4 times. (24)

Rnds 10-15: Sc evenly around.

Bind off and weave in ends. Do not stuff. Press flat.

Scale Wreath

With HUNT, ch 25.

Note: Check that your Row 1 wraps all the way around the tube of your foam wreath! Gauge is important for this pattern. If it does not reach around the foam wreath, adjust your hook size.

Row 1: (WS) Sc in second ch from hook, 23 sc, turn. (24)

Row 2: (RS) (Short Row)(See Pattern Notes) Ch 1, 6 sc, press last rnd of scale flat and hold on RS of work, working through both layers of SLIM scale and next st, 12 sc, 4 sc on body, leave remaining 2 sts unworked for future use, turn. (22)

Row 3: (WS) (Short Row) Do not chain, 20 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked for future use, turn. (20)

Row 4: (RS) Do not chain, working across including skipped sts from Row 2, 22 sc, turn. (22)

Row 5: (WS) Ch 1, working across including skipped sts from Row 3, 24 sc, turn. (24)

Rows 6-145: Repeat Rows 2-5 thirty five (35) more times, alternating between HUNT and SLIM Large Scales as you work.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Inside edge of wreath will have only 108 sts in order to fit on the inside of the foam wreath. Wrap Scale Wreath around foam wreath, pinning first and last rows together where they meet.

Press scales so they all face the same direction, overlapping each other.

Using the long sewing tail, sew the first and last rows together, closing the wreath around the foam. Do not cut yarn.

Using the long sewing tail, sew the inside edge of the wreath closed around the foam. Bind off and weave in ends.

Pin Belly Scales to inside of wreath, over the inner seam of the Scale Wreath piece, pinning the ends together where they meet. Pin generously to ensure proper placement. Using the MUL tail, sew the short ends together where they touch. Using the HUNT tails, sew the side edges in place, gently stretching them to be taught.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Weave in all ends.

Head

With HUNT, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (10)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 5 times. (15)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 5 times. (20)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 5 times. (25)

Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 5 times. (30)

Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] 5 times. (35)

Rnd 8: [6 sc, inc] 5 times. (40)

Rnd 9: Change to SLIM, 2 bobble-st (see Special Stitches), change to HUNT, 10 sc, change to SLIM, 2 bobble-st, change to HUNT, 26 sc. (40)

Rnd 10: Change to SLIM, 2 bobble-st (in top of previous 2 bobbles), change to HUNT, 10 sc, change to SLIM, 2 bobble-st, change to HUNT, 26 sc. (40)

Rnd 11-12: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 13: [8 sc, dec] 4 times. (36)

Rnds 14-16: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 17: Inc, [4 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (40)

Rnd 18: Sc, inc, [5 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (44)

Rnd 19: 2 sc, inc, [6 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (48)

Rnd 20: 3 sc, inc, [7 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (52)

Rnd 21: 4 sc, inc, [8 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (56)

Rnd 22: 5 sc, inc, [9 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (60)

Rnd 23: 6 sc, inc, [10 sc, inc] 3 times, 20 sc. (64)

Rnds 24-27: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 28: [6 sc, dec] 8 times. (56)

Rnd 29: [5 sc, dec] 8 times. (48)

Rnd 30: [4 sc, dec] 8 times. (40)

Rnd 31: [3 sc, dec] 8 times. (32)

Stuff.

Rnd 32: [2 sc, dec] 8 times. (24)

Rnd 33: [Sc, dec] 8 times. (16)

Rnd 34: Dec 8 times. (8)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 8 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.

Eyes

(Make 2)

With YEL, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 4: Change to HUNT, working in BLO, 18 sc. (18)

Rnd 5: Working in both loops, 3 dc in next st, 8 sc, 3 dc in next st, 8 sc. (22)

Rnd 6: Sc3tog (see Special Stitches), 8 sc, sc3tog, 8 sc, sl st in 1^st st to join. (18)

Yellow of eye will be RS facing up, outside eyelid of eye will be WS facing up. This is so the lid curves under, toward the eyeball.

Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing. Thread tail through the corner of the eye to the tip.

Using a scrap of BLK, starting and end on the inside of the exposed front loop of Rnd 4, sew a straight line vertically across the center of each eye. Repeat so the line is 2 strands thick.

Using a scrap of WHT, sew a “dot” 1 st long and wide just to the left of the BLK center line. Repeat so dot is 2 strands thick.

Cut and weave in all ends on the back of the eye, leaving the last HUNT tail to be used for attachment.

Set aside.

Horns

(Make 2)

With WHT, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnds 4-5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [3 sc, inc] twice, turn. (10)

Rnd 7: (WS)(Short rnd) (see Pattern Notes) Do not chain, 5 sc, leave remaining 5 sts unworked, turn. (5)

Rnd 8: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 5 sc, do not turn. (5)

Rnd 9: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 10 sc. (10)

Rnd 10: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Stuff.

Head Assembly

Eye Attachment

Using pins, mark a straight line directly down the center of the face, using the nostrils to gauge where the center should be. This will make attaching the eyes and horns much easier.

Place 2 pins 3 sts from the center line on either side of the face, even with the inside edge of each nostril, at Rnd 16 (1 rnd before increases begin). This is the inside corner of each eye.

Hold the eyes against the head so that both white dots are on the left side of the eye slit, as shown. Angle the eyes upward, away from the center of the face, until the other corner of the eye touches Rnd 24 (1 rnd after the increases).

Using pins, mark where the eye corner touches Rnd 24, as well as where the mid-point touches the head on either side of the eye. Hold eyes away and look at pins, making sure they mirror each other on either side of the marked centerline on the head. Adjust pins as needed.

Using the pins as a guide, use the tails from the eyes to sew the eyes in place around Rnd 4 of the eye (the first HUNT rnd of the eye).

Nostrils

Mark 2 points on each nostril with pins, the outside edge and Rnd 10 and on the inside edge at Rnd 11. With HUNT, Surface sc (see Special Stitches), starting at the outside pin and working around the outside of each nostril until you reach the inside pin (about 7 sts). Weave in ends.

Horn Attachment

Using pins, mark 3 x 3 square on head. One side will be flush with the eyelid attachment, with the front corner of the diamond touching the center point of the eyelid attachment. Hold horns so the short rounds face forward, creating a short curve. Horns should not extend past the plane of the back of the head – they will be almost straight upright.

Wings

(Make 2; 1 Right Wing and 1 Left Wing)

With HUNT, using G hook, ch 41.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 39 sc, turn. (40)

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc evenly across, turn. (40)

Row 5: Ch 1, fold work in half longways, working through next st and back side of corresponding st of starting ch, 40 sc, turn. (40) 

Row 6: Change to MUL, Ch 1, 40 sc, turn.

Row 7: Do not chain, 38 sc, dec, turn. (39)

Row 8: Ch 1, 35 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (35)

Row 9: Do not chain, 33 sc, dec, turn. (34)

Row 10: Ch 1, 30sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (30)

Row 11: Do not chain, 28 sc, dec, turn. (29)

Row 12: Ch 1, 25 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (25)

Row 13: Do not chain, 25 sc, turn. (25)

Row 14: Ch 1, 21 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (21)

Row 15: Do not chain, 21 sc, turn. (21)

Row 16: Ch 1, 17 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (17)

Row 17: Do not chain, 17 sc, turn. (24)

Row 18: Ch 1, 13 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (13)

Row 19: Do not chain, 13 sc, turn. (13)

Row 20: Ch 1, 9 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (9)

Row 21: Do not chain, 8 sc, inc, turn. (10)

Row 22: Ch 1, 6 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Row 23: Do not chain, 5 sc, inc, turn. (7)

Row 24: Ch 1, 3 sc, leave remaining 4 sts unworked, turn. (3)

Row 25: Do not chain, 2 sc, inc, turn. (4)

Row 26: Ch 1, working on unworked sts from previous rounds, 40 sc, turn. (40)

Row 27: Change to HUNT, ch 1, 40 hdc, turn. (40)

Row 28 (Right Wing Only): Change to MUL, 40 sc, turn. (40)

Row 28 (Left Wing Only): Change to MUL, inserting hook into third loop and front loop, 40 sc, turn. (40)

Repeat Rows 7-28 one more time.

Repeat Rows 7-27 one more time.

Insert wire into the tube created by Rnds 1-5 of each wing. Use sewing tails to close the ends.

Weave in all ends.

Set aside.

Tail

With HUNT, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] 3 times. (9)

Rnds 3-5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc] 3 times, turn. (12)

Rnd 7: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 8: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, do not turn. (6)

Rnd 9: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 10: Sc evenly around, turn.

Rnd 11: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 12: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, do not turn. (6)

Rnd 13: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 14: [3 sc, inc] 3 times, 1 sc to move starting st (see Pattern Notes), turn. (15)

Rnd 15: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 16: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 17: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 15 sc. (15)

Rnd 18: Sc evenly around, turn.

Rnd 19: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 20: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 21: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 15 sc. (15)

Rnd 22: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 23: [4 sc, inc] 3 times, 10 sc to move starting st to other side of tube, turn. (18)

Rnd 24: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining 9 sts unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 25: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 26: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 27: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, do not turn. (7)

Rnd 28: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 18 sc. (18)

Rnd 29: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 30: [5 sc, inc] 3 times, 1 sc to move start st, turn. (21)

Rnd 31: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining 10 sts unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 32: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 33: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 34: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, do not turn. (9)

Rnd 35: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 21 sc. (21)

Rnd 36: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 37: Sc evenly around, turn.

Rnd 38: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining 10 sts unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 39: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 40: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 41: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, do not turn. (9)

Rnd 42: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 21 sc. (21)

Rnd 43: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 44: [6 sc, inc] 3 times, 1 sc to move starting st, turn. (24)

Rnd 45: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining 12 sts unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 46: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 47: (WS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining st unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 48: (RS) (Short Rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, do not turn. (10)

Rnd 49: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 24 sc. (24)

Rnd 50-60: Sc evenly around.

Do not stuff.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Press flat with short rounds on either side.

Assembling Parts To Wreath

Choose one side of the wreath as the “front” and one side as the “back.” It doesn’t matter which side, since they should be identical.

On the BACK of your wreath, Pin the flattened tail so the pressed-flat last round aligns with the Belly Scales attachment seam. Position the tail on the left lower half of the wreath (spanning from 7’o’clock to 8’o’clock if the wreath were a clock face), with the upper curve facing left as shown. Leave pinned in place while pinning wings.

Lay wings on back of wreath with the wired edges pointed up and the exposed third loop on each wing facing the FRONT of the wreath (so facing down while you have the Back side up to do attachments). Position one wing directly opposite the tail, spanning from 1’o’clock to 2’o’clock. Position the other wing even with the first, spanning from 10’o’clock to 11’o’clock.

For a narrower wreath, position wings higher up and closer together. 

Using sewing tail of Tail, sewing through both layers of last rnd, attach Tail along seam of Belly Scales.

Using scrap strands of HUNT, sew wings in place, sewing raw edge along seam of Belly Scales. If desired, add extra stitches 3-5 rows up on either side, make sure NOT to sew on Wreath Scales.

Turn over wreath.

Hold head against left inside edge of wreath so it angles with the nose toward the center, not straight out. Move around wreath until the head can be close to level, not tilted side to side or pointed down. This is usually with top of head at about 10’o’clock, even with the bottom of the left wing, and the horns positioned so they straddle the wreath slightly.

Pin on the wreath where the head touches, then place pins in corresponding colors in the head where it touches the pins in the wreath. Using pins as a guide, use sewing tail of head to attach head to wreath. Make sure not to sew into Wreath Scales.

Once all pieces are attached, weave in all ends.

Hanging

With any color yarn, leaving a long starting tail, ch 24.

Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Bind off.

Sew either end of the chain to the wreath at the top-most point of the wing attachments. It should stretch taught. Be sure to add extra stitches and knot each end well. Using door hanger of choice, using the hanging chain to create a balanced hanging point.

Using a piece of sticky tack, Velcro, or a small 3M hook to hang the wings from the tip of the wired end.

© Hooked by Kati LLC 2017-2026

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