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Hue the Manatee | Free Crochet Pattern
Amigurumi,  Free Patterns,  Intermediate Amigurumi

Manatee Amigurumi | Free Crochet Pattern

The free manatee crochet pattern is a fast, fun pattern to make a huggable, wrinkly ocean amigurumi.

His name is a pun. “Oh, the hue-manatee!”

I know. I’m a dork.

Free manatee crochet pattern, hue the manatee, Hooked by Kati


I used a cool new technique to add the wrinkles to my new friend, a method to scrunch up and skip several rounds on a section in order to add shape to the manatee and make him look more chubby.

Every manatee needs a double chin after all. 🙂

This pattern can also be purchased as a Premium Pattern (printable, ad-free, downloadable .pdf file) here.  It can also be found on Etsy or Ravelry.

Note: While these patterns were originally released monthly, life got in the way, as it tends to do. You will still receive all twelve patterns, but now the membership ends February 28th, 2022, and I promise to have all 12 patterns to you by that date. 🙂

Manatee Amigurumi Pattern

Pattern is written in English, in US terms using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

Easy. Knowledge of single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), half double crochet (hdc), increases and decreases.


  • Red Heart Super Saver Stripes yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 236 yds/5 oz/141 g, Cool Stripe (AC), 1 ball.
  • Furls Odyssey G (4.25-4.5mm) hook

  • Polyfil
  • 2- 15mm solid black safety eyes
  • Stitch markers
  • Yarn Needle

free manatee crochet pattern amigurumi | Hooked by Kati


About 10 inches long


2” x 2” = 7 sts x 7 rows in sc

Pattern Notes

  • Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
  • For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
  • Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case piece require repositioning.

Pattern Stitches

  • Fpsc – Front Post Single Crochet: Working around the post of the next st, insert hook front to back behind post, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.



Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second st from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] 6 times. (36)

Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] 6 times. (42)

Rnd 8: [6 sc, inc] 6 times. (48)

Rnds 9-10: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 11: 4 sc, working through Rnd 10 (one round back) 12 fpsc (see Pattern Stitches), move back up to Rnd 11, 32 sc. (48)

Rnd 12: 4 sc, 12 sc in tops of fpsc, 32 sc.  This will leave 12 sts of Rnd 11 unworked behind the fpsc section. First wrinkle complete. (48)

Here is a video of how to do the “wrinkles” on this dear fellow. 🙂 

Rnds 13-17: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 18: Working through Rnd 16 (two rounds back) 24 fpsc, move back to Rnd 18, 24 sc. (48)

Rnd 19: 24 sc, in tops of fpsc, 24 sc.  Second wrinkle complete. (48)

Insert safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, 12-14 stitches apart. When held sideways, the bottom of the eyes should line up with the top of the big wrinkle.

Rnds 20-30: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 31: [6 sc, dec] 6 times. (42)

Begin stuffing.

Rnds 32-33: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 34: 10 sc, working through Rnd 32 (two rounds back) 12 fpsc , 20 sc. (42)

Rnd 35: (Working in sc and tops of fpsc) [5 sc, dec] 6 times. (36)

Rnds 36-37: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 38: 10 sc, working through Rnd 36 (two rounds back) 9 fpsc, 17 sc. (36)

Rnd 39: 10 sc, 9 sc in tops of fpsc, 17 sc. (36)

Rnd 40: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 41: [4 sc, dec] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 42: [3 sc, dec] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 43: [2 sc, dec]  6 times. (18)

Finish stuffing. Leave remainder of piece unstuffed.

Rnds 44-45: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 46: [5 sc, inc] 3 times. (21)

Rnd 47: [6 sc, inc] 3 times. (24)

Rnd 48: [7 sc, inc] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 49: [8 sc, inc] 3 times. (30)

Rnd 50: [9 sc, inc] 3 times. (33)

Rnd 51: [10 sc, inc] 3 times. (36)

Rnd 52: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 53: [4 sc, dec] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 54: [3 sc, dec] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 55: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 56: [sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 57: 6 dec. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through back loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.

 Press tail flat at Round 44-45, with the slight curve facing down, making sure the tail is flattened parallel to the eyes and wrinkles.

To prevent stuffing from shifting into the tail, use some scrap yarn to sew along Round 43 to hold in the body stuffing.


Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 4: 5 sc, 2 dc in next 3 sts, 2 sc, 2 dc in next 3 sts, 5 sc. (24)

Rnd 5: 7 sc, 2 dc in next 4 sts, 2 sc, 2 dc in next 4 sts, 7 sc.  (32)

Rnds 6-9: Sc evenly around.

Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing. At 2 sc between dc increases, press edge inward to make the bottom of the snout into a heart shape.

 Attach nose to body 2 rows from first wrinkle on the bottom and 1 row from eyes on the top. Be sure to sew in a heart shape on the bottom of the snout to keep the jowls the right shape.  When you have sewn nose 2/3 around, stuff.


(Make 2)

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 5: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)

Rnd 6: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] twice. (14)

Rnds 8-9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: 3 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc. (12)

Rnd 11: 3 sc, dec, 7 sc. (11)

Rnd 12: 2 sc, dec, 7 sc. (10)

Rnds 13-15: Sc evenly around.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing. Press flat.

Attach to body at either end of second wrinkle. The bend in the flipper faces down. 


 Ch 7.

Row 1: Hdc in second ch from hook, 5 hdc.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Attach to body over eyes at a slight curve, finished edge facing out, chain edge sewn to body.


Using scrap yarn, sew line from center of nose (not necessarily the center stitch), down between each jowl to where the nose meets the body. Pull tight to further shape jowls.

With BLACK yarn, sew two nostrils 2 stitches apart, angled upward, centered over midline of jowls.

Post comments and pictures on social media with the hashtag #hookedbykati, or tag me @hookedbykati. You can also post pictures on the Facebook Page, or in the Hooked by Kati Crochet Community Facebook Group.

You may sell products made by this pattern, but please link back to or credit Hooked By Kati on the craft fair tag. Do not copy this pattern for distribution or sale; that’s not nice and also illegal.

If you run into a snag, drop me a line! I respond quickly and will help any way I can to clarify any confusion or challenging stitches.

Find more free patterns like this at

Free manatee crochet pattern, hue the manatee, Hooked by Kati

Yarn on,


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  • Diane

    Loved this pattern! Easy to read and follow. Looks so realistic. Found it when looking for a baby shower gift for a mama who is obsessed with manatees. Added a tiny now on head for baby girl. Thanks! It was a hit!

  • Eliza

    Hello. I’m confused on round 41. In round 40, I have 36 stitches. I need to sc 4 decrease 6 times, but when I do this, I only have 24 stitches and 6 extra (after the decrease). Can you please help me?
    Sorry I put question in wrong place earlier.

    • admin

      41 should look like this:
      4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. That should make 6 decreases, so you will decrease from 36 sts to 30 sts. Hope that helps!

      In the future, the fastest way to get help would be to use the contact form or email me directly. Thanks!

  • Chris Owen

    Hi there! Thanks for the amazing pattern! I am getting a bit confused with right side and wrong side of work showing. Normally I have to turn my work inside out to get the “right” side showing, but it seems with this pattern I shouldn’t do this? Chris

    • Chris Owen

      I think I’ve realised what’s going on… I’m a left gander but I crochet right handed counter clockwise. I’ve just watched your crinkle video again and seen you crochet clockwise. This is where I am getting in a muddle! So ignore me – I just have to decide whether to unpick what I have done and start again!

      • Derek Wynn

        I didn’t know if I had done it right, so I undid all my stitches and started again. I was a little confused because normally one row down means the immediate row down, like the row you’re working on top of, but in this video it means the row UNDER the row you’re working on top of. I hope this helps.

  • Sheryl Carter

    I loved working this pattern. Your instructions were very clear and readable and my end result came out adorable. Thank you!!

  • Walli

    Hello, I really love you patterns.

    But as my mothertongue isn´t english – I don´t understand “2 dc in next 3 sts”.
    what does it mean?

    • admin

      Work 2 double crochets in each of the next 3 stitches. So, you will work 2 dcs, then 2 dcs in the next stitch, then 2 dcs in the next st. 🙂

  • G

    I used a round marker, and I constantly count the stitches…. (I like counting!) I know there’s that slight move/lean of the rounds. That at least kept it from being too far off. Maybe it’s just a difference in tension or yarn or something like that. 🙂 Thanks.

  • G

    New problem/question… 😀 I’ve gotten to round 40. and I’m working on putting in the stuffing. I noticed, however, that the wrinkles seem twisted. I was sure I followed the rounds and the stitch counts right. Will it work out once I get it fully stuffed? (It’s at about half full atm)

  • G

    I have a question (well, two questions), and a comment on the video instructions.

    Question: in the video, you talk about the fpsc being two rows below, I’m seeing you go 3 rows – to me, 1 row is where you say a normal fpsc is, 2 rows is where you say 1 row down is, and 3 rows down is where you say 2 rows down is. Which is it, 2 or 3 rows down? The reason I ask is that in row 11, you say to put the fpsc in row 10, which is the “normal” 1 row down place, but then you say one row down. So, are the fpsc done in the round 10 stitches or in the round 9 stitches?

    Comment: You say in the video that for a normal fpsc, you’d go back to the tops of the row before the fpsc stitches were done, and just leave the fpsc done. I have never seen that in a pattern. Normally, from the years I’ve been crocheting, the next round gets worked in the tops of the fpsc, like you say to do in the video, so that’s what I would have done even if I hadn’t watched the video. It doesn’t make sense to me to go to the “skipped” row, it makes sense to me to follow the fpsc the previous row did. The ridge effect ends up on the other side of the work. I have no idea if I explained what i mean in a way anyone will understand, though. 🙂

    • Anonymous

      Just to clarify, I really do like how this pattern ends up looking. I just want to understand what you’re trying to say in the instructions, so I might need to translate it into what I am used to thinking of.. 🙂

    • Kati

      I’m sorry if it was confusing. You got the right idea though. To go one row down would just be normal placement, and therefore would not be a row below where you are working. If it said to make a regular fpsc, then you would jsut put it where it goes (that next post), not the one under that. In a standard pattern, if you need to work on any row other than the one you would normally, you have to specify, which is why I stated it the way I did. A standard fpsc would not need instructions as to which row to use.

      As for the placement of the fpsc stitches, I have seen it down in many ways, but the majority of the time a fpsc is used to create a more prominent ridge than, say, an hdc, in which case the designer wants the ridge on the right side (front) of the work. That is why I make sure to specify that these ridges need to be on the back side, because they are not decorative, they are structural.

      I hope that cleared up any confusion. It seems you understood the pattern though, and I would love to see your work!

      • G

        I think I’m understanding, now. In rnd 11, you mention rnd 10, but you mean skip the posts of the stitches made in rnd 10 and go around the posts made in rnd 9? And in rnd 12, it says rnd 11 stitches get skipped, butit’s the tops of the rnd 10 stitches that get skipped (the ones ignored when doing the fpsc get ignored again) as you go into the tops of the fpsc made in rnd 11?

        I think this it mostly just me translating what you’re saying into terms I’m used to… 🙂 My brain gets silly like that, sometimes.

        • Kati

          Your brain is not silly! I do that too. I still read every increase round much differently than it is written because my brain says “every, 5th, every 6th, every 7th” instead of counting the sts between. So I totally get it! Do it how your brain reads it, and then if it does not come out the way you thought it should, go back and re-read from a different angle. 🙂

          • G

            Thanks, Kati! And I made an instagram acct so I can show a pic when I’m done. 🙂 I’ve gotten to round 13, and I really like how your “wrinkle” method looks, so far. Would have been useful when I made up a duck pattern for a friend, last year. 😀

  • Emily

    SO cute and so easy to do! Few nights of crocheting while watching TV and I have a fabulous baby shower gift for a manatee loving friend.
    Thank you!

  • Alia Bird

    When you say [ sc 3, inc] 6 times, does that mean that I am single crocheting in one stitch, then increasing in the next six times? I have been trying to find cheats on how to read that but I wanted to make sure so I don’t mess up! I love your blog, and manatees so I am excited!

    • Kati

      Thank you for asking, Alia! When a pattern uses brackets in this way, it means that you are to repeat the whole section within the brackets the number of times specified. So in this case, you should make 3 sc, then increase, then 3 sc, then increase… until you have 6 increases with 3 sc between them. I hope that makes it more clear. 🙂

      • Eliza

        Hello. I’m confused on round 41. In round 40, I have 36 stitches. I need to sc 4 decrease 6 times, but when I do this, I only have 24 stitches and 6 extra (after the decrease). Can you please help me?

  • Frouke

    Hi! I love this pattern! I’ve tried to make it, but I don’t get round 11.. I have to translate the pattern in Dutch en it makes no sense 🙂 Could you maybe help me? Are there some video’s who explain the idea of making a crinckle?

    • Kati

      Basically, once you have the decreases done, finish stuffing the body and then stop stuffing for the remainder. When you do the tail, it will look 3D like the body, but as you close it, press it flat and it will curve naturally on its own. I do not have a video of this…yet.

  • Brenda

    Adorable! Thanks for sharing this pattern, and for the video you recorded explaining how to do the wrinkles. I can’t wait to make one of my very own! I love the idea of doing the rainbow Manatee. I have some the the Retro stripe Red Heart yarn in my stash. I plan sharing your website on my weekly crochet podcast. My Youtube Channel is called MyPugifulLife crochet. Thanks!

      • Marcy K

        Love this pattern! I made a small change in adding another wrinkle to row 25 (SC 10, 8 fpsc (1 row back), 30 sc). It gave him just a little more bend and character to his middle. Happy hooking!

        • Julia

          Hello! This pattern is absolutely adorable. The manatee I made turned out well without any complications (other than that I forgot to not stuff the tail). I was wondering, would I be able to sell any products I make from this pattern? Or from any of your other patterns? I would of course credit you for the pattern and make a note that can direct people back to your website.

          • admin

            Absolutely! You can make and sell any finished product made by any of my patterns. As you stated, please credit me on social media or on your listing. Thank you for asking!

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