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Free Pumpkin Crochet Pattern | Rick Rack Pumpkin

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The rick rack stitch is a tighter variation on the V-stitch. It is great for accessories that need to be warmer, like hats and gloves, and it is even tight enough to use for some amigurumi, like a rick rack pumpkin.

With Fall in full swing here in Colorado and pumpkin spice everywhere, I decided a Rick Rack Pumpkin would be a great Project. They are also a great way to teach you to do increases and decreases in the rick rack stitch.

There are lots of cute ways to make stems for pumpkins, but I have a plethora of wine corks, so I glued on a cool one from my collection.

Supplies

  • Red Heart Super Saver yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 364 yds/7 oz/198 g, White (WHT), < 1 ball; Pumpkin (PUM), < 1 ball.
  • Furls Odyssey G (4.00 mm) hook
  • Polyfil stuffing
  • 1 groovy cork
  • Tacky Glue or another white glue
  • Yarn needle

Measurements

About 6″ in diameter, 5″ tall including cork “stem”

Rick Rack Pumpkin

Thank you for sticking around and reading my patterns right here on the blog, without copy/pasting. When you stay here to follow patterns, I am compensated for my time and energy. This is a great, free way to support a designer. If you would like to save this for later, press CTRL + D to bookmark the page or click the heart/star on your mobile browser.

With PUM, ch 4.

Rnd 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, 11 dc in same st, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (12)

Rnd 2: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, 3 dc in same sp, *skip 2 dc, 4 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (24)

Rnd 3: Change to PUM. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, 4 dc in space between dcs, *skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2, 4 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (36)

Rnd 4: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 4 dc in space between dcs, *[skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] twice, skip 2 dc, 4 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join.(48)

Rnd 5: Change to PUM. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, [2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc] twice, 4 dc in space between dcs, *[skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] three times, skip 2 dc, 4 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (60)

Rnd 6: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, [2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc] three times, 4 dc in space between dcs, *[skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] four times, skip 2 dc, 4 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (72)

Rnd 7: Change to PUM. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same space, [skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] 35 times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (72)

Rnd 8: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same space, [skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] 35 times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (72)

Rnd 9-12: Repeat rounds 7 and 8 twice.

Rnd 13: Change to PUM. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, [2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc] three times, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, *[skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] four times, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (60)

Rnd 14: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, [2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc] twice times, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, *[skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] three times, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (48)

Rnd 15: Change to PUM. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, *[skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs] twice, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (36)

Rnd 16: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, dc in same sp, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, *skip 2 dc, 2 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in space between dcs, repeat from * 4 more times, skip 1 dc, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (24)

Stuff.

Rnd 17: Change to WHT. Sl st in space between ch-3 and 1st dc, ch 3, [skip 2 dc, dc in space between dcs] 5 times, skip 1, sl st in top of ch-3 to join. (12)

Bind off leaving very long tail for sewing. Thread needle through remaining 12 stitches and pull tight.

Do not weave in ends. Using tail, thread needle through center of pumpkin from back to front. Pull yarn until it creases sides of pumpkin. Repeat as desired. (I like 6 creases. You do you.)

Glue cork to center of pumpkin. Let dry at least 24 hours.

free pumpkin crochet pattern | rick rack pumpkin | Hooked by Kati pin

Here’s a few more FREE crochet patterns you might like:

CLASSIC GHOST BUDDY

CREEPY EYEBALL

SQUASHED WITCH PLACEMAT

Yarn on,

Kati

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