Free Skeleton Guinea Pig Crochet Pattern – Skelly Pig | Halloween Amigurumi
Looking for a free skeleton guinea pig crochet pattern? Skelly Pig is a spooky and adorable amigurumi perfect for intermediate crocheters who love Halloween-themed projects. This skeleton guinea pig crochet pattern is quick to make, with minimal sewing and clever stitch techniques that bring his bony details to life.
Skelly Pig may be tiny, but his skeletal charm is big! Perfect as a Halloween decoration, a fun collectible, or a unique gift, this free guinea pig skeleton crochet pattern is a must-have for amigurumi enthusiasts looking for a spooky twist.
Pattern Snapshot
- Finished Size: 7″ inches long x 4″ wide x 4″ tall
- Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate
- Time to Make: Fast Project (1–3 hours)
- Yarn: Worsted Weight Acrylic, Weight: 4
- Hook: G (4.00 mm)
More Patterns For you
Love Halloween? –> All Halloween Patterns
Also check out Victor the Skeleton Dragon!
I also have a Skeleton Amigurumi round up!
Putting Together Your Skeleton Guinea Pig
Skelly Pig is based heavily on the Guineacorn design, using the body as a base to make the skeleton look hollow, and the skull, ears, feet, and rib cage are added over the top of the body. It’s a simple idea, but the end results is an adorable little undead pet for you to hug.
Are you looking for an easy Halloween crochet pattern? This Skelly Pig fits the bill! He can be worked up quickly and easily. The pattern uses basic stitches plus a bobble stitch to add a spine to our piggy.
The Premium Pattern 2.0 makes this guinea pig incredibly easy to put together, with lots of pictures for positioning the skull and spine around the body for the best results possible.
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Before You Start This Pattern
This pattern is written for confident beginners to intermediate crocheters. Basic amigurumi skills like working in the round, increasing, decreasing, and sewing pieces together will be helpful.
Worsted weight acrylic or cotton yarn works best for most amigurumi patterns. Using a smaller hook than recommended will help create tight stitches with fewer gaps.
Use a hook smaller than the yarn label suggests and keep your stitches tight. This helps prevent stuffing from showing through the fabric.
If the finished project is intended for small children, consider embroidering the eyes instead of using safety eyes, and make sure all pieces are securely attached.
Skelly Pig | Free Crochet Pattern
Pattern is written in English, in US terms, using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.
You Need to Know:
Chains (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), Right side (RS), Wrong side (WS), increases and decreases. Be eager to learn and ready to have fun!
For a quick refresher of these basic skills, go to www.hookedbykati.com/basics
You Will Practice Easy Techniques
- How to make a 3-dimensional object in crochet
- How to use pins to perfectly place and attach amigurumi parts
- How to shape using increases and decreases
- How to assemble amigurumi parts
- How to create intentional holes using ch-spaces
Supplies
- Red Heart Super Saver yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 364 yds/7 oz/198 g, White (WHT), < 1 ball; Black (BLK), < 1 ball.
- G (4.00 mm) hook
- Two 15 mm solid red safety eyes
- Poly-fil stuffing
- Tapestry Needle
- Stitch markers (optional)
Measurements
7 inches long x 4 inches wide x 4 inches tall
Pattern Notes
- Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
- For best results, assemble parts at the end of the project. This allows you to reposition bones on the Inner Body as needed.
- Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case pieces require repositioning.
Pattern Stitches
- Bobble-st – Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times in same st, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.
- Single Crochet 3 together – sc3tog: [Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
- Sm-Bobble-st – Small Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 3 times in same st, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Instructions
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Inner Head/Body
With BLK, Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] 3 times. (9)
Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] 3 times. (12)
Rnd 4: [3 sc, inc] 3 times. (15)
Rnd 5: [4 sc, inc] 3 times. (18)
Rnd 6: [5 sc, inc] 3 times. (21)
Rnd 7: [6 sc, inc] 3 times. (24)
Rnd 8: [7 sc, inc] 3 times. (27)
Rnd 9: [8 sc, inc] 3 times. (30)
Rnds 10-12: Sc evenly around. (30)
Rnd 13: 9 sc, [inc, 2 sc] 4 times, 9 sc. (34)
Rnd 14: 9 sc, inc 3 times, 9 sc, inc 3 times, 10 sc. (40)
Rnd 15: 12 sc, inc 3 times, 9 sc, inc 3 times, 13 sc. (46)
Rnds 16-17: Sc evenly around. (46)
Rnd 18: 14 sc, sc3tog (see Pattern Stitches), 12 sc, sc3tog, 14 sc. (42)
Rnd 19: Sc, [dec, 4 sc] twice, sc3tog, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, sc3tog, [4 sc, dec] twice. (32)
Rnd 20: Sc evenly around. (32)
Set on table with front leg stumps facing down. Attach safety eyes between rounds 8 and 9, about 8 stitches apart. Optional: Position off-center to make head appear tilted.
Stuff head.
Rnd 21: [7 sc, inc] 4 times. (36)
Rnd 22: [8 sc, inc] 4 times. (40)
Rnds 23-28: Sc evenly around. (40)
Rnd 29: [9 sc, inc] 4 times. (44)
Rnds 30-32: Sc evenly around. (44)
Rnd 33: [10 sc, inc] 4 times. (48)
Stuff leg stumps and shoulders.
Rnds 34-35: Sc evenly around. (48)
Rnd 36: [4 sc, dec] 8 times. (40)
Rnd 37: [3 sc, dec] 8 times. (32)
Rnd 38: [2 sc, dec] 8 times. (24)
Finish stuffing body.
Rnd 39: [Sc, dec] 8 times. (16)
Rnd 40: Dec 8 times. (8)
Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 8 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.
Skull
With WHT, ch 2.
Rnd 1: 9 sc in second ch from hook. (9)
Rnd 2: [2 sc, inc] 3 times. (12)
Rnd 3: [3 sc, inc] 3 times. (15)
Rnd 4: [4 sc, inc] 3 times. (18)
Rnd 5: [5 sc, inc] 3 times. (21)
Rnd 6: [6 sc, inc] 3 times. (24)
Rnd 7: [7 sc, inc] 3 times. (27)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, ch 8, skip 2, 7 dc, ch 8, skip 2, 13 sc. (23, two ch-8 sps)
Rnd 9: Hdc, 2 dc, 10 sc in ch-8 space, 7 dc, 10 sc in ch-8 space, 2 dc, hdc, 10 sc. (43)
Rnd 10: 3 sc, 10 sc around previous rnd, working into same ch space, 7 dc, 10 sc around previous rnd, working into ch space, 13 sc. (43)
Rnd 11: [5 sc, dec] 6 times, sc. (37)
Rnd 12: Sc evenly around.
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.
Spine
With WHT, ch 32.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, 9 sc, [Sm-Bobble-St (see Special Stitches), 3 sc] twice, [Bobble-St (see Special Stitches), 3 sc] 3 times, Bobble-st in last ch. (4 Bobbles, 2 Sm-Bobbles, 25 sc)
Bind off leaving very long tail for sewing.
Ribs
(Make 2 Of Each Size)
Sizes are as follows: Extra-Long (Long, Medium, Short)
With WHT, ch 16(13, 10, 7)
Row 1: Sl st in second ch from hook, Sl st down length of chain. (15(12, 9, 6))
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.
Right Ear
With WHT, Ch 2.
Row 1: (WS) 6 sc in second ch from hook, turn. (6)
Row 2: (RS) Ch 3, dc in same st, dc inc, sc inc, dc inc 3 times. (10 dc, 2 sc)
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.
Left Ear
With WHT, Ch 2.
Row 1: (WS) 6 sc in second ch from hook. Turn. (6)
Row 2: (RS) Ch 3, dc in same st, dc inc twice, sc inc, dc inc twice. (10 dc, 2 sc)
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.
Front Feet
(Make 2)
With WHT, Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (10)
Rnd 3: [Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sl st in next ch, sl st in next st on foot] 4 times. (4 toes)
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.
Hind Legs
(Make 2)
With WHT, Ch 18.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 7 sc, 3 sc in next st, 8 sc, turn. (19)
Row 2: Do not chain, 9 sc, inc, 9 sc. (20)
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.
Hind Feet
(Make 2)
With WHT, Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)
Rnds 2-7: Sc evenly around. (6)
Do not stuff. Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.
Attachments
This project assembles best with all pieces pinned to the Inner Body before stitching in place. This allow you to move bones so they all fit without overlapping.
Skull
Fit Skull over face with eyes positioned under the eye sockets. Should be rather snug. Pin in place.
Ears
Pin ears along last round of Skull, 4 stitches apart. Do not curve. Smaller end of ear should be on the inside, RS facing forward.
Spine
Pin Spine down centerline of Inner Body, starting with the last bobble touching the Skull and wrapping about halfway down the hind end of the Inner Body.
Ribs
Pin Ribs largest to smallest, starting with the Extra-Long rib touching the first bobble behind the Skull. It should curve slightly down the Body, crossing no more than 3 rounds across. Pin each subsequent rib touching the next bobble on the Spine. Keep Ribs positioned at the same slight curve, evenly spaced. Repeat on the other side of the Spine, looking straight down at the Body to mirror the Ribs.
Hind Legs
Pin Hind Legs, corner pointing forward, to the largest part of the Inner Body. Both ends should touch Rnd 35 (last round before decreases). Bottom of Hind Leg should reach low enough down the body to align with Hind Feet. Look straight down at the Body to mirror Hind Legs on either side of the Spine.
Hind Feet
Pin Hind Foot to larger end of Inner Body, last round just touching the bottom of the Hind Leg. Hind Feet should lay horizontally along the bottom of the Body.
Front Feet
Pin with WS facing body. Lay round part of foot on the stump of the front leg, toes pointed straight forward.
Sewing
- Sew on Skull around last round, along Rnd 12 of the Inner Body.
- Sew each ear in a straight line, directly to the last round of the Skull.
- Sew along both sides of the Spine to keep the bobbles facing up.
- Sew each Rib in a line down the center of each Rib.
- Sew around all sides of Hind Legs.
- Sew in a straight line the length of each Hind Foot, leaving them otherwise loose.
- Sew around outside of Front Foot then under toes so they remain free moving.
Nose
Using needle and BLK, start at center point of Skull. Sew a “V” upward, pointed toward eye sockets. Repeat so nose is two strands thick. Thread yarn back up through starting point and sew one line straight down about 2 stitch lengths. Bind off and weave in ends.
Weave in all attachment ends when parts are positioned as desired.
© Hooked by Kati LLC 2017-2026
Crochet Pattern FAQ
A: Yes! This is a free crochet pattern you can use directly on the blog. It includes all instructions needed to complete the project without purchasing the PDF.
I think of my free crochet patterns a bit like a fun-size candy bar—same great ingredients, just a smaller experience. They’re complete patterns meant to be followed right from the blog, but they also give you a chance to see whether my pattern-writing style works for the way you crochet before investing in one of my premium designs.
If you prefer the king-size experience, the printable PDF versions include color photos, progress check boxes, and extra guidance for trickier sections. Available at shop.hookedbykati.com.
A: This pattern is written for advanced crocheters. It may not be the best pattern for a beginner. However, it is a great pattern for those who are just getting into amigurumi shaping and would like to see what crochet can really do when you apply the right techniques.
A: You may sell finished items made from this pattern, but you may not redistribute or sell the pattern itself. This ensures free patterns remain accessible while respecting the designer’s work.
A: Yes, you can change the size by using a different yarn weight and hook size. I have a great post all about this called “Making Ami Bigger Without Changing the Pattern.” Keep in mind that this may also change the proportions slightly, so check your gauge, and make sure it creates a square swatch.
Read through the pattern notes carefully and check the tutorial links included in the pattern. You can leave a comment on the pattern post and Kati, the designer, will do her best to help. You can also email the designer at kati@hookedbykati.com. The Facebook Group is also very helpful as many of the people in it have finished a HbK pattern (if not several).
Yes. You can make this whole pattern without having to sew anything! The beak and wings are crocheted right onto the body as you make it.
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If you run into a snag, reach out — I’m always happy to help! I answer emails Monday – Friday. 8-5.
Kati is a crochet pattern designer, dragon obsessive, and certified geek who has been turning yarn into fantasy creatures since 2016. Her patterns lean heavily toward dragons, fantasy beasts, and whatever her brain decides is a good idea at 2am. She is proudly anti-AI crochet and very pro-finishing-your-WIPs (she’s working on it). When she’s not crocheting something with too many horns, she’s probably watching something nerdy or playing dog agility with her two American Hairless Terriers. Want to work together or just say hi? Contact her here.