Amigurumi,  Dragons,  Free Patterns,  Mythical Creatures

UPDATED! Vincent the Dragon | Free Crochet Pattern

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Vincent, the well-known crochet shoulder dragon, is a cuddly mythical creature with tons of personality. Create your own stuffed animal dragon with this free amigurumi pattern.

After thousands of projects and years of fun, Vincent the Dragon is getting a makeover!

Originally published in September of 2019, it was about time for Vincent to get his 2.0 Premium Pattern as well.

Don’t worry! He is still the same adorable friend, perfectly-sized for a great hug. But after years of growing and learning as a writer/designer, it was time that I updated the pattern for more clarity and a few more options.

So here he is, (new and improved) your large crochet dragon pattern and the perfect cosplay shoulder dragon.

Large dragon free crochet pattern from Hooked by Kati

Dragons are a symbol of wonder, wisdom, and imagination — three things I think this world needs more of. I have loved dragons for years, long before the “geek chic” trend. I’m a huge nerd, and fantasy is no exception!

Construction

Yes, he is large. I would not recommend Vincent for your very first amigurumi pattern, although if you are a fast learner and you are ready to take on some new techniques in shaping, he is very fun to make. And the new 2.0 pattern walks you through the hard parts step-by-step. This is an intermediate level pattern.

With this in mind, I would strong urge you to pay the little bit and purchase the Premium Pattern 2.0 on this one. The pattern has just been rewritten as a 2.0 pattern, complete with checkboxes for each row/round, color coding where you need it, and 40 (Yes, forty) pages of photo tutorials!

His tail curves around using short rows, and the natural twist of working in the round is played to our advantage so that his tail twists and curves, allowing it to lay naturally over your shoulder or the edge of a table. (I prefer him on my shoulder, but — as I’ve said before — I’m a nerd.)

AND now you have the option in Round 70 to decide if you want his tail to drape over a shelf (or shoulder) or if you want it to sit flat out in front of him (so he can sit on a bed).

Large dragon free crochet pattern from Hooked by Kati

His claws are worked directly onto the ends of his legs, so there is some branching involved, but nothing you can’t handle. Use the Skinny Amigurumi Parts tutorial to help with those rascally toes. 

And his wings are unique. Vincent’s wings are the first pattern I have ever written that uses wire. You will make a long tube (there again, use that Skinny Parts tutorial) and then put the wire in the tube and close it up. Then sew the wing flaps to the wired frame. The wings are in one piece so they attach to the body in a straight line and won’t flop around as much. 

For 40 pages of bonus photos and tutorials, purchase this pattern as a Premium Pattern for only $7.00 (printable, ad-free, downloadable .pdf file) here.  It can also be found on Etsy or Ravelry

Large dragon free crochet pattern from Hooked by Kati

Vincent the Dragon | Free Crochet Pattern

Pattern is written in English, in US terms, using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

You Need to Know:

Chains (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), back loops only (BLO), Right side (RS), Wrong side (WS), increases and decreases, mattress stitch sewing. Be eager to learn and ready to have fun!

For a quick refresher of these basic skills, go to www.hookedbykati.com/basics

You Will Practice Intermediate Techniques:

  • How to shape amigurumi curves using short rounds
  • How to use pins to perfectly place and attach amigurumi parts
  • How to crochet on the surface of a 3D object
  • How to branch parts with several branches (claws)
  • How to use wire to support shaping in amigurumi wings

Supplies

  • Red Heart With Love yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 370 yds/7 oz/198 g, Evergreen (EVER), 1 ball; Lettuce (LETT), < 1 ball; Aran (ARAN), < 1 ball.
  • G (4.00 mm) Furls Odyssey hook
  • Two 24mm colored slit-pupil safety eyes
  • 22” long piece of 14-gauge or 16-gauge coated/insulated solid copper wire, each end folded in half and crimped to avoid a sharp tip. (You can find it at a hardware store in the electrical wire section or in your local craft store in the floral section.)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Straight pins

Measurements

20” long x 12” tall; tail hangs 9” below shelf

Gauge

8 sts x 8 rows in sc = 2” x 2”

Pattern Notes

  • Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
  • For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
  • Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case pieces require repositioning.
  • Rounds labeled “Short rnd” are worked back and forth and will end before the round is complete, leaving stitches deliberately unworked to be worked in later rounds as instructed. For more on this, go to https://www.hookedbykati.com/how-to-curve-using-short-rounds-video-tutorial/
  • When instructed, an additional sc(s) will be added at the end of a round to move the starting stitch. These sts will not change the count of the round, they will only move the placement of the starting stitch.
  • Ch-3 at beginning of round counts as dc.

Special Stitches

  • Bobble-st – Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times in same st, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.
  • Surface sl st – Surface slip stitch: With loop on hook, insert hook around post or between stitches of finished work, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook.
  • Surface sc – Surface single crochet: With loop on hook, insert hook around post or between stitches of finished work, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops on hook. Work single crochets on top of finished work.
  • Sc join – Single crochet join: Slip knot in yarn, loop slip knot over hook, insert hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • Surface st – Surface stitch – With slip knot behind work, insert hook front to back through work, pull up slip knot, insert hook into next stitch of finished work, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook. Insert hook front to back into next st of finished work, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook.

Instructions

Thank you for sticking around and reading my patterns right here on the blog, without copy/pasting. When you stay here to follow patterns, I am compensated for my time and energy. This is a great, free way to support a designer. If you would like to save this for later, press CTRL + D to bookmark the page or click the heart/star on your mobile browser.

Head

With EVER, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (10)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 5 times. (15)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 5 times. (20)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 5 times. (25)

Rnd 6: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 7: Bobble-st (see Special Stitches), 8 sc, bobble-st, 15 sc. (23 sc, 2 bobbles)

Rnds 8-11: Sc evenly around. (25)

Press bobbles inward, creating nostrils.

Rnd 12: [4 sc, inc] 5 times. (30)

Rnds 13-14: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 15: [5 sc, inc] 5 times. (35)

Rnds 16-17: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 18: [6 sc, inc] 5 times. (40)

Rnds 19-21: Sc evenly around.

Insert safety eyes after round 15, aligned with nostrils, 9 sts showing between eyes. Make sure slits are vertical when the head is held sideways.

Rnd 22: [6 sc, dec] 5 times. (35)

Rnd 23: [5 sc, dec] 5 times. (30)

Rnd 24: [4 sc, dec] 5 times. (25)

Rnd 25: [3 sc, dec] 5 times. (20)

Stuff.

Rnd 26: [2 sc, dec] 5 times. (15)

Rnd 27: [Sc, dec] 5 times. (10)

Rnd 28: Dec 5 times. (5)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 5 stitches. Pull tight to close. Leave long tail for sewing.

 Eyebrows

(Make 2)

With EVER, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 4 hdc, sc. (6)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

Sew to face through back of starting chain in an arch directly over safety eyes.

Nostril Flairs

With EVER, surface sl st (see Special Stitches) in stitch on outside of nostril on Round 7, 5 surface sc (see Special Stitches) around upper edge of nostril, 4 surface sc toward point of nose, surface sl st between rounds 2 and 3. 

Repeat on other nostril.

Weave in ends.

Nose Horn

With ARAN, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Bind of leaving long tail for sewing.

  Attach to snout between nostrils, between Rounds 6 and 8.

Horns

(Make 2)

With ARAN, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnds 4-5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [3 sc, inc] twice, turn. (10)

Rnd 7: (WS)(Short rnd) (see Pattern Notes) Do not chain, 5 sc, leave remaining 5 sts unworked, turn. (5)

Rnd 8: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 5 sc, do not turn. (5)

Rnd 9: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 10 sc. (10)

Rnd 10: [4 sc, inc] twice. (12)

Rnd 11: Sc evenly around, 7 sc to move starting st to other side (see Pattern Notes), turn. (12)

Rnd 12: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 13: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, do not turn. (6)

Rnd 14: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 15: [5 sc, inc] twice. (14)

Rnd 16: Sc evenly around, sc to move starting st, turn.

Rnd 17: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 18: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, do not turn. (7)

Rnd 19: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 14 sc. (14)

Rnd 20: [6 sc, inc] twice. (16)

Rnd 21: Sc evenly around.

Stuff.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

  Attach horns to head between rounds 22 and 26, arching back away from face, 1 stitch between horns.

Set head aside for future attachment.

Neck

With EVER, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 4 times. (16)

Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [3 sc, inc] 4 times. (20)

Rnds 7-8: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 9: [4 sc, inc] 4 times. (24)

Rnds 10-12: Sc evenly around. (24)

Rnd 13: [5 sc, inc] 4 times. (28)

Rnds 14-17: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 18: [6 sc, inc] 4 times. (32)

Rnds 19-22: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 23: [7 sc, inc] 4 times. (36)

Rnd 24-27: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 28: [8 sc, inc] 4 times. (40)

Rnds 29-36: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 37: [3 sc, dec] 8 times. (32)

Rnd 38: [2 sc, dec] 8 times. (24)

Stuff firmly.

Rnd 39: [sc, dec] 8 times. (16)

Rnd 40: Dec 8 times. (8)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 8 sts. Pull tightly to close. Weave in ends.

Tail/Torso

Note: Rnd 70 can be done two ways. If you wish your dragon’s tail to hang over a shelf, use black instructions. If you wish your dragon to set flat on a surface, tail out in front of him, use green instructions.

With EVER, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnds 4-5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: [3 sc, inc] twice. (10)

Rnds 7-8: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 9: [4 sc, inc] twice, turn. (12)

Rnd 10: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 6 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 11: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, do not turn. (6)

Rnd 12: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 12 sc. (12)

Rnd 13: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 14: [5 sc, inc] twice, turn. (14)

Rnd 15: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining 7 sts unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 16: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, do not turn. (7)

Rnd 17: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 14 sc. (14)

Rnd 18: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 19: [6 sc, inc] twice, turn. (16)

Rnd 20: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 8 sts unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 21: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, do not turn. (8)

Rnd 22: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 16 sc. (16)

Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 24: [7 sc, inc] twice, turn. (18)

Rnd 25: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining 9 sts unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 26: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, do not turn. (9)

Rnd 27: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 18 sc. (18)

Rnd 28: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 29: [8 sc, inc] twice. (20)

Rnds 30-32: Sc evenly around. At the end of Rnd 32, 12 sc to move starting st to opposite side of tube. These sts do not change the st count, only move the starting point of the next rnd. (20)

Rnd 33: [9 sc, inc] twice, turn.

Start stuffing.

Rnd 34: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining 11 sts unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 35: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, do not turn. (11)

Rnd 36: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 22 sc. (22)

Rnd 37: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 38: [10 sc, inc] twice, turn. (24)

Rnd 39: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining 12 sts unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 40: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, do not turn. (12)

Rnd 41: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 24 sc. (24)

Rnd 42: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 43: [11 sc, inc] twice, turn. (26)

Rnd 44: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining 13 sts unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 45: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, do not turn. (13)

Rnd 46: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 26 sc. (26)

Rnd 47: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 48: [12 sc, inc] twice, turn. (28)

Rnd 49: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining 14 sts unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 50: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, do not turn. (14)

Rnd 51: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 28 sc. (28)

Rnd 52: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 53: [13 sc, inc] twice, turn. (30)

Rnd 54: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, leave remaining 15 sts unworked, turn. (15)

Rnd 55: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 15 sc, do not turn. (15)

Rnd 56: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 30 sc. (30)

Rnd 57: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 58: [14 sc, inc] twice, turn. (32)

Rnd 59: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, leave remaining 16 sts unworked, turn. (16)

Rnd 60: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, do not turn. (16)

Rnd 61: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 32 sc. (32)

Rnd 62: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 63: [15 sc, inc] twice, turn. (34)

Rnd 64: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 17 sc, leave remaining 17 sts unworked, turn. (17)

Rnd 65: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 17 sc, do not turn. (17)

Rnd 66: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnd, 34 sc. (34)

Rnd 67: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 68: [16 sc, inc] twice. (36)

Rnds 69: Sc evenly around.

Continue stuffing.

(For tail that hangs over a shelf ONLY) Rnd 70: Sc evenly around, turn.

(For tail that sits on a flat surface ONLY) Rnd 70: Sc evenly around, 12 sc to move starting st, turn.

Rnd 71: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 34 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (34)

Rnd 72: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 32 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (32)

Rnd 73: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 30 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (30)

Rnd 74: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 28 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (28)

Rnd 75: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 26 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (26)

Rnd 76: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 24, sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (24)

Rnd 77: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 22 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (22)

Rnd 78: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 20 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (20)

Rnd 79: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 18 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (18)

Rnd 80: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 16 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (16)

Rnd 81: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 14 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (14)

Rnd 82: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 12 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (12)

Rnd 83: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 10 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (10)

Rnd 84: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 8 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (8)

Rnd 85: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (6)

Rnd 86: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 6 sc, do not turn. (6)

Rnd 87: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 36 sc. (36)

Rnds 88-114: Sc evenly around.

Stuff.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

  Set torso on flat surface (desk or table) with tail hanging off the edge (if you used the black instructions) or flat on the table like a snake (if you used the green instructions).

  Position neck vertically on the table at a 90-degree angle to the torso. The neck should be standing up with the narrow end straight up and the open end of the torso ready to attach to the side of the neck.

  Pin a hexagon (6 sides) with 6 sts on each side between Rnds 24 and 36 The top and bottom of the hexagon will be 12 rows apart. Pin the opening of the torso where it touches the neck.

  Using the pins as a guide, sew the torso to the neck. Add extra stuffing before finishing attachment.

Belly Scales

With LETT, ch 10.

Work in BLO throughout piece.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 8 sc, turn. (9)

Rows 2-3: Ch 1, 9 sc, turn. (9)

Row 4: Ch 1, inc, 7 sc, inc, turn. (11)

Rows 5-9: Ch 1, 11 sc, turn. (11)

Row 10: Ch 1, inc, 9 sc, inc, turn. (13)

Rows 11-14: Ch 1, 13 sc, turn. (13)

Row 15: Ch 1, inc, 11 sc, inc, turn. (15)

Rows 16-19: Ch 1, 15 sc, turn. (15)

Row 20: Ch 1, inc, 13 sc, inc, turn. (17)

Row 21-24: Ch 1, 17 sc, turn. (17)

Row 25: Ch 1, dec, 13 sc, dec, turn. (15)

Row 26-55: Ch 1, 15 sc, turn. (15)

Row 56: Ch 3 (see Pattern Notes), 4 dc, 5 hdc, 5 sc, turn. (15)

Row 57: Ch 1, 5 sc, 5 hdc, 4 dc, dc in top of ch-3, turn. (15)

Rows 58-67: Repeats rows 56-57 five more times.

Row 68: Ch 1, dec, 13 sc, turn. (14)

Rows 69-71: Ch 1, 14 sc, turn. (14)

Row 72: Ch 1, dec, 12 sc, turn. (13)

Row 73-75: Ch 1, 13 sc, turn. (13)

Row 76: Ch 1, dec, 11 sc, turn. (12)

Rows 77-79: Ch 1, 12 sc, turn. (12)

Row 80: Ch 1, dec, 10 sc, turn. (11)

Rows 81-83: Ch 1, 11 sc, turn. (11)

Row 84: Ch 1, dec, 9 sc, turn. (10)

Rows 85-87: Ch 1, 10 sc, turn. (10)

Row 88: Ch 1, dec, 8 sc, turn. (9)

Rows 89-91: Ch 1, 9 sc, turn. (9)

Row 92: Ch 1, dec, 7 sc, turn. (8)

Rows 93-94: Ch 1, 8 sc, turn. (8)

Row 95: Ch 1, dec, 6 sc, turn. (7)

Row 96: Ch 1, 7 sc, turn. (7)

Row 97: Ch 1, dec, 5 sc, turn. (6)

Row 98: Ch 1, 6 sc, turn. (6)

Row 99: Ch 1, dec, 4 sc, turn. (5)

Row 100: Ch 1, 5 sc, turn. (5)

Row 101: Ch 1, dec, 3 sc, turn. (4)

Row 102: Ch 1, 4 sc, turn. (4)

Row 103: Ch 1, dec, 2 sc, turn (3)

Row 104: Ch 1, 3 sc, turn. (3)

Row 105: Ch 1, dec, sc, turn. (2)

Row 106: Ch 1, 2 sc, turn. (2)

Border: Change to EVER. Ch 1, working in both loops, 2 sc, sc around outside edge of belly scales, working 1 sc into the end of each sc row and 2 sc into the end of each dc row. Sl st in 1st st of border to join.

Bind off leaving VERY long tail for sewing.

  Pin belly scales with starting chain at Round 7 of the neck, passing under the neck, and running the length of the body. The widest point of the scales will reach the rounded bottom of the neck as it wraps underneath. The curve of the belly scales will follow the big curve of the tail. You may need to stretch the belly scales slightly to fit. Pin them in place as you go. The belly scales will not reach the end of the tail. Using yarn tail and sewing through EVER border only, sew belly scales to neck, torso, and tail.

Front Legs

(Make 2)

Leg and First Toe

With EVER, ch 2. Leave long starting tail for sewing.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] 6 times. (30)

Rnds 6-7: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 8: [8 sc, dec] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: [7 sc, dec] 3 times. (24)

Rnd 11: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 12: [6 sc, dec] 3 times. (21)

Rnd 13: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 14: [5 sc, dec] 3 times. (18)

Rnd 15: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 16: [4 sc, dec] 3 times. (15)

Rnd 17: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 18: Sc evenly around, turn.

Rnd 19: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 13 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (13)

Rnd 20: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 11 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (11)

Rnd 21: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 9 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (9)

Rnd 22: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 7 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (7)

Rnd 23: (WS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 5 sc, leave remaining 2 sts unworked, turn. (5)

Rnd 24: (RS)(Short rnd) Do not chain, 5 sc, do not turn. (5)

Rnd 25: (RS) Work around including unworked sts from previous rnds, 15 sc. (15)

Rnd 26: [3 sc, dec] 3 times. (12)

Stuff leg, leaving thigh loosely stuffed so when pressed flat it is 1.5” (4 cm) thick.

Rnds 27-36: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 37: Inc in each st around. (24)

Stuff leg to knee.

(Begin first toe. Do not break yarn.)

Rnd 38: Skip 18, sc 6. Leave skipped stitches unworked for future use. (6)

Rnds 39-41: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 42: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 43: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 44: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 45: Change to ARAN, sc evenly around.

Rnd 46: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Second Toe

Rnd 38: Sc join (see Pattern Stitches) in 1st skipped st of first toe, 2 sc, skip 12, 3 sc. Leave skipped stitches unworked for future use. (6)

Rnds 39-41: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 42: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 42: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 44: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 45: Change to ARAN, sc evenly around.

Rnd 46: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Third Toe

Rnd 38: Sc join in next skipped st from first toe, 2 sc, skip 6, 3 sc. Leave skipped stitches unworked for future use. (6)

Rnds 39-41: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 42: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 43: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 44: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 45: Change to ARAN, sc evenly around.

Rnd 46: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Fourth Toe

Rnd 38: Sc join in next skipped st from first toe, 5 sc. (6)

Rnds 39-41: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 42: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 43: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 44: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 45: Change to ARAN, sc evenly around.

Rnd 46: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

  Align front legs to neck so that the elbow, forearm, and claw are flush with the flat surface and the elbow is out in front of the body. Mark with pins where the legs touch the neck. Using pins as a guide, attach legs to neck.

  Bend claws down so points of claws touch the flat surface.

Rear Legs

(Make 2)

Leg and First Toe

With EVER, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 5: Skip 12, 12 sc. Leave skipped stitches unworked to use for thigh in a later step. (12)

Rnds 6-15: Sc evenly around. (12)

Rnd 16: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

(Begin first toe. Do not cut yarn.)

Rnd 17: 3 sc, skip 12, 3 sc. Leave skipped stitches unworked. (6)

Stuff leg to knee.

Rnds 18-21: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 22: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 24: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 25: Change to ARAN. Sc evenly around.

Rnd 26: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Second Rear Toe

Rnd 17:  Sc join into 1st skipped st of Rnd 16, 2 sc, skip 6, 3 sc. Leave skipped stitches unworked. (6)

Rnds 18-21: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 22: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 24: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 25: Change to ARAN. Sc evenly around.

Rnd 26: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Third Rear Toe

Rnd 17: Sc join into next skipped st of Rnd 16, 5 sc. (6)

Rnds 18-21: Sc evenly around. (6)

Rnd 22: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.

Stuff toe.

Rnd 24: [2 sc, dec] twice. (6)

Rnd 25: Change to ARAN. Sc evenly around.

Rnd 26: [Sc, dec] twice. (4)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 4 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Thigh

Rnd 6: Sc join on 1st skipped st of Rnd 5, 11 sc. (12)

Rnd 7: [3 sc, inc] 3 times. (15)

Rnd 8: [4 sc, inc] 3 times. (18)

Rnd 9: [5 sc, inc] 3 times. (21)

Rnd 10: [6 sc, inc] 3 times. (24)

Rnd 11: [7 sc, inc] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 12: [8 sc, inc] 3 times. (30)

Rnd 13: [9 sc, inc] 3 times. (33)

Rnd 14: [10 sc, inc] 3 times. (36)

Rnd 15: [11 sc, inc] 3 times. (39)

Rnd 16: [12 sc, inc] 3 times. (42)

Rnds 17-18: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 19: [5 sc, dec] 6 times. (36)

Rnd 20: [4 sc, dec] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 21: [3 sc, dec] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 22: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)

Loosely stuff thigh to knee so when pressed flat the thigh is 1.5” (4 cm) thick.

Rnd 23: [Sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 24: Dec 6 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

  Bend leg at knee so thigh and lower leg touch. Do not permanently stitch leg into bent position so hind leg remains flexible from the knee down.  

  Position with the leg bent, foot facing the neck. The left leg will be positioned over the largest curve of the torso. Pin where thigh and torso/tail meet. Attach thigh along the pins.

  Repeat with right rear leg so the end of the thighs attach at the same round on either side of the torso.

Head Attachment

  Before moving on to the wings, attach the head.

  Align the last st of the head (center) with the tip of the neck and tilt it downward until it is where you like it. Use pins to mark where the head and neck touch. Color code your pins to keep track of which pins align with each other. Using the pins as guides, sew the head to the neck.

Wing Bones

With EVER, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6)

Rnds 2-88: Sc evenly around. (6)

Go here for an easier method to crochet these skinny parts.

Insert 22” wire into long tube.

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

  Measure 4” from each end. Bend 90 degrees at both marks in the same direction.

Wings

With LETT, ch 17.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, 15 sc, turn. (16)

Row 2: Ch 1, 14 sc, dec, turn. (15)

Row 3: Ch 1, 15 sc, turn. (15)

Row 4: Ch 1, 13 sc, dec, turn. (14)

Row 5: Ch 1, 14 sc, turn. (14)

Row 6: Ch 1, 12 sc, dec, turn. (13)

Row 7: Ch 1, 13 sc, turn. (13)

Row 8: Ch 1, 11 sc, dec, turn. (12)

Row 9: Ch 1, 12 sc, turn. (12)

Row 10: Ch 1, 10 sc, dec, turn. (11)

Row 11: Ch 1, 11 sc, turn. (11)

Row 12: Ch 1, 9 sc, dec, turn. (10)

Row 13: Ch 1, 10 sc, turn. (10)

Row 14: Ch 1, 8 sc, dec, turn. (9)

Row 15: Ch 1, 9 sc, turn. (9)

Row 16: Ch 1, 7 sc, dec, turn. (8)

Row 17: Ch 1, 8 sc, turn. (8)

Row 18: Ch 1, 6 sc, dec, turn. (7)

Row 19: Ch 1, 7 sc, turn. (7)

Row 20: Ch 1, 5 sc, dec, turn. (6)

Row 21: Ch 1, 6 sc, turn. (6)

Row 22: Ch 1, 4 sc, dec, turn. (5)

Rows 23-31: Ch 1, 5 sc, turn. (5)

Row 32: Ch 1, 4 sc, inc, turn. (6)

Row 33: Ch 1, 6 sc, turn. (6)

Row 34: Ch 1, 5 sc, inc, turn. (7)

Row 35: Ch 1, 7 sc, turn. (7)

Row 36: Ch 1, 6 sc, inc, turn. (8)

Row 37: Ch 1, 8 sc, turn. (8)

Row 38: Ch 1, 7 sc, inc, turn. (9)

Row 39: Ch 1, 9 sc, turn. (9)

Row 40: Ch 1, 8 sc, inc, turn. (10)

Row 41: Ch 1, 10 sc, turn. (10)

Row 42: Ch 1, 9 sc, inc, turn. (11)

Row 43: Ch 1, 11 sc, turn. (11)

Row 44: Ch 1, 10 sc, inc, turn. (12)

Row 45: Ch 1, 12 sc, turn. (12)

Row 46: Ch 1, 11 sc, inc, turn. (13)

Row 47: Ch 1, 13 sc, turn. (13)

Row 48: Ch 1, 12 sc, inc, turn. (14)

Row 49: Ch 1, 14 sc, turn. (14)

Row 50: Ch 1, 13 sc, inc, turn. (15)

Row 51: Ch 1, 15 sc, turn. (15)

Row 52: Ch 1, 14 sc, inc, turn. (16)

Row 53: Ch 1, 16 sc. (16)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

  Stretch wings across wing bones, attaching wing to either side and the inside of the long edge.

Surface st (see Pattern Notes) 3 lines from bottom of wing to peak of wing, evenly spaced apart.

  Pin wing at rows 23 and 31 (the small section in the middle). Fold wires up at these two points, leaving a short section in the middle. Sew this short, flat section to the torso in the center of the back, where the torso meets the neck. Position as desired. 

Pro Tip: Sew around the wire inside the wing bones to reinforce the attachment of the wings to the body.

Optional: Tack down wings at Rnds 23 and 31 where they touch the body.

Weave in all attachment ends when parts are positioned as desired.

All finished? Share your artwork by posting a picture in the Gallery!!

Post comments and pictures on social media with the hashtag #hookedbykati, or tag me @hookedbykati. You can also post pictures on the Facebook Page, or in the Hooked by Kati Crochet Community Facebook Group.

You may sell products made by this pattern, but please link back to hookedbykati.com or credit Hooked By Kati on the craft fair tag. Do not copy this pattern for distribution or sale; that’s not nice and also illegal.

If you run into a snag, drop me a line! I respond quickly and will help any way I can to clarify any confusion or challenging stitches.

Find more free patterns like this at allfreecrochet.com.

Not ready to start? Save this pattern for later!

Large dragon free crochet pattern from Hooked by Kati

I can’t wait to see your crochet dragon plushies!

Here are a few more free crochet patterns you might like:

CHARLIE THE CELESTIAL DRAGON

ANDUIN THE GRYPHON

ULYSSA THE UNICORN

DRAGON EYE PILLOW

Yarn on,

Kati

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108 Comments

  • pupz333

    My wings look nothing like the photo… I can’t understand how to put them with the wing bones. The bones are so much longer than the wings but in the photo they look to be the same size. Can someone help me. please

  • Crocheter

    I don’t understand how to attach the wings at all. Do I make two of the wing part (not the wing bone?) How is it supposed to go together? The wing part is so much smaller than the wing bone… I don’t understand.

  • Annette Johnson

    Hi, I lost my original pattern of Vincent the Dragon in my pattern downloads somewhere, i have looked everywhere, and im wondering if it starts out as the same as the premium new pattern,,, I have a crochet friend that wants a Vincent but new version and wants me to do it, she gave me yarn to do it, and providing everything for it. ,,,, i was just wondering if it starts out the same.?

  • Venetta

    Hi I’m a little bit confused by Row 14 in the horns. It says “Rnd 14: (RS)Continuing on unworked sts from two rounds back, 12 sc. (12)” I’m unsure if that continues on from row 13 so 13+14 is 12 stitches total or if I am working back over row 13 for a total of 12 stitches. Thanks.

  • Ana Sudy

    I appreciate very much the free pattern.
    I must tell you that the pattern is USD 7 in Ravelry, not 3 as indicated in the newsletter.
    Is there any discount coupon?
    Thanks.

  • Aline

    Hello! I’m translating this pattern to brazilian Portuguese (for my personal use, I promisse you!) in order to make it easy for me to read as I work on Vincent, but I couldn’t find what (WS) and (RS) mean. These are in the 7th, 8th and 9th rounds of the horns. Could you please explain what are those things so I can translate it somehow?

    Thanks for your amazing pattern and your attention! 🇧🇷 ♥

    • Trina

      Hello. Vincent looks so good! I was caught when I saw you 2 together. You bring him to life ,great pic and you should be so proud. Nerd or not, I can see the genuiness of your passion and art in what you have produced. I can’t wait to get started!!! Much love, a fellow crocheter 😆😉trina

  • Ellie Feathertree

    Thank you so much for making this pattern free!!! I have plans to buy your patterns and invest when I can also. I have been wanting to crochet one of your patterns from seeing your TikToks and I’m so excited 🙂

  • Lisha

    Love this pattern. Just having a problem understanding the rows after stuffing the tail. Won’t the turning indstead of continuing the rounds leave that whole side open?

  • Gloria Vinson

    Please can you help: I have trouble understanding Rnd 9 (horns). Also do you have a video tutorial which may make it a bit easier. Thank you.

  • s p

    i would appreciate it very much if i could contact someone to make me a Vincent the Dragon.

    do you sell your products?

    you may contact me via email.

    thanks sp

    • kerri

      Hi. i have a couple of projects i need to finish but i would be happy to help out if you really want one made for you.

      Best wishes

      Kerri

  • Kim

    I am almost finished Vincent. Just need to attach his limbs, wing and head. I just did the surface slip stitches on his belly I’m not sure if I just skipped reading the instructions or they’re not there 😊. I love the look the surface slip stitch gives but I can definitely say I’m not a fan of doing it…..lol. Love the pattern, thank you for sharing your amazing work 😊

  • Alison Scher

    Hi there!

    I’m obsessed with this dragon pattern! It’s perfect for what I want to do, only it’s too big. If I pay you, could you shrink this down so the dragon stands around 10 inches give or take?

    thanks so much!

  • Joanne Haigler

    I am glad I found this pattern. Needed a pattern for a dragon, so I did a google search. Vincent came up. So far I have done the head, now working on neck. I have learned several new techniques-curves and invisible decrease. The instructions are very clear so far. Loving it. Planning to make two for my friend’s boys, who love dragons. I may even have to make one for myself!

  • Anonymous

    He’s beautiful! Thank you so much for the pattern! I am almost 13 and I think I’m about a beginner, maybe intermediate. But my work matches your pictures, so I think I can do it. This dragon is amazing! Again, thanks!

    • Kati | Hooked by Kati

      Check your spam folder. Look for either your Ravelry or Etsy confirmation email and there is a link there. If you still have trouble, please email me directly.

  • Umi

    Currently in the middle of making this gorgeous creature. Loving the process of learning the techniques used. Dreading the continuous rounds of sc since I tend to miscount the stitches and/or lose my spot. Regardless, seeing how this piece comes together with every stitch is very satisfying, even within all the frustration it may cause. Great work.

  • Penny

    Hi there, for round 5 of the rear legs – it says to leave 12 stitches unworked and continue to sc around for the next rows. Do you slip stitch the unworked 12 sc in each round or turn at the end? Many thanks

  • Jan Schafer

    I love Vinent! He was fun to make and a bit of a challenge on his feet but when I just let go and did it one step at a time he came together. He is for my soon to be 5 year old grandson’s birthday. Thank you so much for this Awesome baby. I posted a picture on my facebook.

  • Jade

    Hi, I love this pattern. It is intended to be a 60th birthday present when I am finished. Fingers crossed I manage to pull it off. Thank you so much! I just have a quick question. I am struggling to understand how to make the nostril flares and eyebrows. Are there any video tutorials you can point me in the direction of to understand this further? Thanks again!

  • Jenny Curtis

    Vincent the Dragon is well written and easy to follow! I am beyond thrilled that my project is almost complete! I am making him for my grandson. I had to enlist the hubby’s help for the wing support wire as I could not find the insulated kind Required but we used a clothes hanger and slipped it into a section of oxygen tubing. Hubby bent small circles in each end so I could secure them from popping out with a couple stitches. Thank you so much for letting us use the pattern!

  • Jacki wray

    I have never ran into WS and RS not sure what to do I know it mean wrong side and right side but how can you have a wrong side and a right side when you are working in rounds
    I am presently working on the torsal
    Can you help please

    • admin

      The short round section involves turning and working in the other direction of the round. To keep those rounds easy to understand, I added the RS/WS so you would know if you were working in the correct direction or not.

  • Kim Vanderleest

    I crochet lots of Dragon’s and this one is by far my favorite! Your pattern is so well written! Would love to send you a pic of my Vincent the Dragon just completed.

  • Danna Pinzon

    Kati You had creative ideas and this is the hardest one because it’s so large!!! You are like a Master Crochet Builder!!!!!! once crocheted a king size blanket and it is full of different colors!! It also takes 1 month and a half to make!!!! Keep it up keep going to make more patterns!!!!!

    • Donna Fleming

      Love your patterns. Thanks for sharing. I’d love to make the dragon and unicorn for my grandkids I have a few other patterns I’m working on atm but hope to find your pattern again when I’m able to work on them Thanks again

  • Julie Cox

    Hi this is a question I’ve looked everywhere for a pattern of the dragon of John Lewis Christmas advert his name is Willbur , I live in the UK , could you help in anyway thanks

  • Elizabeth

    Hello! Round 14 does not tell you to turn, but the next round still says to work on the wrong side. Was that just a typo or am I missing a step? Thank you!

    • Susan Roberts

      Hi Kati
      I can’t wait to start making Vincent the Dragon but am not sure about how much wool to get. If i get three 100g balls of Evergreen and one ball of Lettuce green will I have enough wool to make him. Best wishes.

  • Amy

    I love this pattern! I actually haven’t made any amigurumi yet and am using this as my beginner’s pattern and slaying it! I do have a question thought- on the horns on the short rounds, what does “SC to move starting stitch” mean? I’m assuming it’s something extra in addition to turning the work, but I cannot figure it out for the life of me! Thanks for the awesome pattern- I’m so happy I found your site!

    • admin

      I’m so glad you like it! Way to challenge yourself! All it means is that the number of stitches in the row is as stated, but you will do one extra at the end (the first stitch of the next round) in order to move the starting stitch of the next round over one. It’s just a repositioning stitch. 🙂

    • admin

      Hi Cheryl, I’m not sure what you mean by “md?” There are short rounds in the horns that are labeled “WS” which means “wrong side,” meaning you would be working with the wrong side (the inside in this case) facing you for the rest of that round. These are rows that are worked back and forth to add more rows to one side of the horn so it will curve. Hope that helps!

      • Fiona McNeill

        I wish I could send a picture of my finished Dragon… I did it for a customer and it was for her 4yr old grandson which he loved and wouldn’t put it down.. He fell asleep with it in his arms… I customized and thrilled with the way it turned out.. Your pattern was so easy to follow. Thanks so much for the pattern and all sales I make from it your credited with the pattern.
        I have recommended to people to give it a go.

        💜 🙏 💜 Love and light 💜 🙏 💜
        Fiona
        Mystic Dragon Crafts

  • Tina Bothwell

    I’m doing the horns and on r7 it says wrong side am I supposed to flip it inside out n sc5 or am I supposed to turn my work and sc5

  • jujus camden

    Wow Vincent is absolutely fantastic can’t wait to get the yarn and get started on this gorgeous guy. Thank you so much

  • Maria Luz

    Los patrones que publicas son muy didacticos, se pueden realizar con mucha facilidad, muchas gracias por compartir, abrazos desde Lima, Perú

  • Deb

    Thank you for this incredibly generous gift of your time and talents with such a wonderful pattern. I have been counting the days for Vincent to arrive, he looks like he knows the secret to mending a broken heart. I am hoping my crochet ability can hold up so I can make Vincent as he is going to made and gifted to a little person living in the midst of a very long drought in rural Australia. Thank you Kati.

    • Fiona McNeill

      I love the Dragon I made it for a friend and she requested a few changes hope you like it…
      I can’t wait to make some more of your patterns.

      I have pictures and would love to share the finished Dragon with you.

      💜 🙏 💜 Love and light 💜 🙏 💜

      Fiona
      Mystic Dragon Crafts

  • Elba

    Gracias por compartir tus patrones, son bellos. Si en alguna oportunidad puedes publicarlos en español, te lo agradecería mucho, Felicitaciones. Un abrazo desde mi querido Perú.

      • Trina

        Hello. Vincent looks so good! I was caught when I saw you 2 together. You bring him to life ,great pic and you should be so proud. Nerd or not, I can see the genuiness of your passion and art in what you have produced. I can’t wait to get started!!! Much love, a fellow crocheter 😆😉trina

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