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Amigurumi,  Dragons,  Free Patterns,  Intermediate Amigurumi

Fizzle the Baby Dragon | Free Crochet Pattern

Fizzle is an adorable baby dragon amigurumi. A fast pattern for intermediate crochet artists, this guy features few attachments and a fun method of making smoke out of yarn.

Who doesn’t love baby dragons? This little fellow has not yet sprouted his wings, but his fire-breathing is starting to smolder.

Fizzle the Baby Dragon free amigurumi crochet pattern

Construction

Fizzle is a perfect transitional pattern for amigurumi learners. His body is all one piece, which makes it easy to make quickly. the legs use branching, which is a great intermediate skill for making bent legs.

Toes and nostrils are made using bobble stitches, adding a little extra texture to the work.

The smoke is a strand of brushed yarn, threaded into the nostril.

And here’s my secret weapon: light hold hairspray. It keeps the smoke perking up without making it stiff or sticky-looking.

This pattern is also available as a Premium Pattern! Premium Patterns are ad-free, printable .pdf files, professionally formatted and edited, often with extra tutorial photos not available in the free version.

Premium Patterns are available in the Hooked by Kati Shop, Ravelry, and Etsy.

Fizzle the Dragon

Pattern is written in English, in US terms, using Craft Yarn Council abbreviations.

Intermediate. Knowledge needed of chains (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), increases and decreases. Knowledge of amigurumi part attachment is recommended.

Supplies

  • Red Heart Super Saver yarn, 100% acrylic, worsted weight, 364 yds/7 oz/198 g, Pale Plum (PLUM, < 1 ball; Lavender (LAV), < 1 ball; Aran (ARAN), < 1 ball; Black (BLK), scraps.
  • G (4.00 mm) Furls Odyssey hook
  • Polyfil stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
  • Straight pins
  • Hair brush or slicker brush
  • Flexible hold hair spray or light starch

Measurements

11” long x 4” tall

Gauge

8 sts x 8 rows in sc = 2” x 2”

Pattern Notes

  • Work in continuous rounds. Do not slip stitch unless otherwise specified by the pattern.
  • For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
  • Weave in attachment ends at very end of project in case pieces require repositioning.
  • When instructed, an additional sc will be added at the end of a round to move the starting stitch of the next round to the left.

Special Stitches

  • Bobble-st – Bobble stitch: [Yo, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook] 5 times in same st, yo, pull through all 6 loops on hook.
  • Picot – Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.
  • Sc join – Single crochet join: Slip knot in yarn, loop slip knot over hook, insert hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.

Instructions

Body

With PLUM, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in second ch from hook. (5)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (10)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] 5 times. (15)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] 5 times. (20)

Rnd 5: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 6: Sc, bobble-st (see Special Stitches), 5 sc, bobble-st, 12 sc. (2 bobbles, 18 sc)

Rnd 7: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 8: [3 sc, dec] 4 times. (16)

Rnd 9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: Inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 7 sc. (20)

Rnd 11: Sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 7 sc.  (24)

Rnd 12: 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc. (28)

Rnds 13-15: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 16: [5 sc, dec] 4 times. (24)

Rnd 17: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 18: [Sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 19: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 20: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 21: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 22: [7 sc, inc] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 23: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 24: [8 sc, inc] 3 times. (30)

Stuff head.

Rnd 25: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 26: [9 sc, inc] 3 times. (33)

Rnd 27: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 28: [10 sc, inc] 3 times. (36)

Rnd 29: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 30: [11 sc, inc] 3 times. (39)

Rnd 31: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 32: [12 sc, inc] 3 times. (42)

Rnds 33-35: Sc evenly around. At the end of Rnd 35, 13 sc to move starting st. (see Pattern Notes)

Rnd 36: Dec, 9 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 18 sc. (39)

Rnd 37: Dec, 8 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 17 sc. (36)

Rnd 38: Dec, 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 16 sc. (33)

Rnd 39: Dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 15 sc. (30)

Rnd 40: Dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 14 sc. (27)

Rnd 41: Dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 13 sc. (24)

Rnd 42: Dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 12 sc. (21)

Rnd 43: Dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 11 sc. (18)

Rnds 44-45: Sc evenly around.

Continue stuffing.

Rnd 46: [4 sc, dec] 3 times. (15)

Rnds 47-48: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 49: [3 sc, dec] 3 times. (12)

Rnds 50-51: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 52: [2 sc, dec] 3 times. (9)

Rnds 53-54: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 55: [Sc, dec] 3 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Back Spines

With LAV, ch 36.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, hdc, (dc, picot (see Special Stitches), dc) in next st, hdc, sc, [sc, hdc, (dc, picot, dc) in next st, hdc, sc] 6 times. (7 spikes)

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

With pins, mark a line along the dragon’s back from neck to tail.

Sewing through the back of the starting ch, attach spines along marked line.

Hind Legs

(Make 2)

Starts at elbow.

With PLUM, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 5: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 7: Skip 12, 12 sc. Leave skipped sts unworked for later use. (12)

Rnd 9: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 10: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnds 11-13: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 14: [2 sc, dec] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 15: [Sc, dec] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 16: Dec 6 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Do not stuff thigh. Press flat. Thigh will curve slightly into a bowl shape.

Lower Leg/ Foot

Rnd 8: With PLUM, sc join (see Special Stitches) in 1st skipped st of Rnd 7, 11 sc. (12)

Rnd 9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: 10 sc. Do not work last 2 sts. (10)

Stuff foot and corner of leg.

Press last round flat with starting st on far right end.  Working through both layers, you will now have a row of 6 sts.

Row 11: (Toes) Ch 1, [bobble-st, sc] 3 times. (3 bobbles, 3 sc)

Pop bobbles up toward bend in leg to form toes.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Using starting tail from sc join, close hole in crease of leg with a ‘X.’

Front Legs

(Make 2)

Starts at elbow.

With PLUM, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: Inc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 5: [Sc, inc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 7: Skip 12, 12 sc. Leave skipped sts unworked for later use. (12)

Rnds 8-9: Sc evenly around.

Rnd 10: 10 sc. Do not work last 2 sts. (10)

Press last round flat with starting st on far right end.  Working through both layers, you will now have a row of 6 sts.

Row 11: (Toes) Ch 1, [bobble-st, sc] 3 times. (3 bobbles, 3 sc)

Pop bobbles up toward bend in leg to form toes.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Upper Leg

Rnd 8: With PLUM, sc joinon 1st skipped st of Rnd 7, 11 sc. (12)

Rnd 9-11: Sc evenly around.

Stuff leg and foot.

Rnd 12:  Dec 6 times. (6)

Cut yarn. Thread needle through front loops of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Using starting tail from sc join, close hole in crease of leg with a ‘X.’

Leg Attachments

Hold front leg to body so that the lower leg lays along the ground and the toes hug the body, almost touching the neck. The upper leg should be between Rnds 24 and 30 on the body.

Using pins, mark where the upper leg and body meet on both pieces. Using pins as a guide, sew around upper leg where it touches to body.

Repeat with opposite front leg, making sure they are in alignment.

With the thigh flattened, hold it against the body between Rnds 33 and 44. Thigh should be no more than 2 sts away from the spines at the closest point.

Bend hind leg at the knee so the center point of the thigh is facing forward rather than up. Lower leg should be flat on the ground.

Using pins, mark where the thigh touches the body on both pieces. Using pins as a guide, sew around thigh where it touches the body. Repeat on other leg.

Horns

(Make 2)

With ARAN, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. (4)

Rnd 2: [Sc, inc] twice. (6)

Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] twice. (8)

Rnd 4: Sc evenly around.

Bind off leaving long tail for sewing.

No stuffing needed.

Mark two 2 x 2 squares on the head in line with the nostrils at Rnds 15 and 16, 4 sts apart.

Using pins as a guide, sew horns to head.

Eyes

With BLK, sew two L-shaped curves facing back toward shoulders, in line with the horns, between Rnds 12 and 14.

Smoke

Cut two strands of gray about 10 inches long.

Brush out one end of each strand. Yarn may break. Be gentle, and brush farther down the strand until you have a 4” long frayed section.

Thread un-brushed end on a needle and thread down through center of nostril and out the bottom of the head. Bind off the un-brushed end under the head. Repeat on other nostril.

To help smoke stand up, hold vertical and gently spray with flexible hold hair spray or light starch.

Weave in all attachment ends when parts are positioned as desired.

Post comments and pictures on social media with the hashtag #hookedbykati, or tag me @hookedbykati. You can also post pictures on the Facebook Page, or in the Hooked by Kati Crochet Community Facebook Group.

You may sell products made by this pattern, but please link back to hookedbykati.com or credit Hooked By Kati on the craft fair tag. Do not copy this pattern for distribution or sale; that’s not nice and also illegal.

If you run into a snag, drop me a line! I respond quickly and will help any way I can to clarify any confusion or challenging stitches.

Find more free patterns like this at allfreecrochet.com.

Fizzle the Baby Dragon, a free crochet amigurumi pattern from Hooked by Kati

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Yarn on, 

Kati

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